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Javalina 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Scott Ayers
Page Views: 912
Submitted By: Hillary Davis on Jun 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Jay at the thin crux of Javalina. PHOTO BY HILLARY...

Description 

Nice positive holds (though it seems like some have broken), gets easier and funner as you go higher and swim through steep plates. Fairly exposed start.

Location 

Furthest-left route on the wall. The belay bolt is strongly suggested. You COULD also belay from the ground if you really want to but the tree branches get in the way.

Protection 

Bolts, chain anchors.


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By jbak
Dec 4, 2006

Anyone else done Javelina lately ? Looks to me like a hold broke recently and it feels like 5.11 now. Or else I missed something.
By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Jan 30, 2007

I think you did miss something. I did it this weekend and it felt 5.10. Though I think that a back-step at the crux is crucial to keeping the grade at 5.10.
By Jimbo
Feb 1, 2007

jbak,
I did this a few weeks ago. Seemed like all the old holds were there. I always thought is was hard 5.10 though, with a tricky crux bit.
By jbak
Feb 2, 2007

Thanks for the feedback. I guess I'm either weak or stupid. (I know... you're thinking "both".)
By Steve Pulver
From: Williston, ND
Feb 2, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Javelina is the one furthest to the left?
I usually believe, if I can red point it then it's easier than 5.11. The route just to the right of it, Saguaro, is rated easier but felt harder. I might call that one 11a.
By Jimbo
Feb 3, 2007

jbak , I know your not weak but you just can't think unless your horizontal on a climb. This vertical stuff is just to...well... vertical.

The crux of Javelina is harder than any move on Saguaro by a couple of letter grades, in my opinion.

Steve, maybe your a 5.11 climber and just don't know it yet.
By jt512
Administrator
Mar 22, 2007

jbak, I had trouble with javalina last time I climbed it, despite having onsighted it several years ago. I also wondered if something had broken off -- around the 2nd bolt, if memory serves.
By Braxtron
From: ...
Feb 2, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Did this one yesterday for the first time. Seemed like there was one move of 5.10+.
By John Hayes
From: Bend, OR
Mar 28, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I haven't been on Javelina for a long time so Dave Jones and I did it yesterday and it still feels pretty hard. I'm old and broken down and it felt almost like 5.11 so I give it a 5.10d rating. The start is a bit exposed and the crux is thoughtful and a bit burly. From there it's a fun jug haul up through the "dead-verts". It's on my personal short list of super fun climbs in the canyon. It gets sun in the late afternoon so it's a good choice for a cool day in the early spring or late fall.