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Java Dome

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North Face 
South Face 
West Face 

Java Dome 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Feb 19, 2006
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Description 

Java Dome is really three distinct faces, North, South, and West. Its south face is home to a decent selection of lower-end difficulty, slab routes. These routes are basically bolt-protected. The rock quality on this south face is fairly good. There are a few routes on the west face as well which require traditional pro. Fortunately, there are rarely crowds here. Enjoy.

L->R:

North Face (Grey Wave Wall) - best approached from the Atlantis Slab

A. Clear Lycra, 10+ R, 1p, 150', bolts.
B. Hammerhead, 10 R, 1p, 150', bolts.
C. El Nino, 10 PG-13, 1p, 150', bolts.
D. Burley Dudes, 11+ R, 1p, 150', bolts.
E. Way Jingus, 11, 1p, 150', TR.
F. Traditionalists at Work, 9, 1p, 180', bolts.

West Face - approached from either Atlantis Slab or Bali Dome approaches

A. Rock Lobster, 10 S, bolts & gear.
B. Banzai Pipeline, 9, gear.
C. Big, Ugly Chimney, 9 X, 1p, 165', gear.
D. Banzai Escape, 8, gear.

South Face - best approached from the Bali Dome approach

A. Beach Blanket Bingo, 10, 1p, 80', bolts (Leeper hangers).
B. Vertical Beach Party, 9 S, 1p, 130', bolts.
C. The Unhead, 6 VS.
D. Quit Yer Beachin', 6 R, 1p, 160', bolts.
E. Route 5.6, 6, 1p, 130', bolts.


Getting There 

From Denver, go West on US Hwy 285, go South (left) on Foxton Rd, this Ts at the South Platte River, head East (left) to South Platte, then it curves South, go 3 miles. There is a prominent, large boulder across the South Platte River just North of the parking area. Park where legal. 2 drainages can be hiked up. The North one has Atlantis Slab a short way up. Choose the South drainage. Hike 20 minutes or so. Find the South face. Scramble up and around some boulders to find this route on the right side of the South face.


13 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',5],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Java Dome:
Traditionalists at Work   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 180'   North Face
Platte Magic   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   North Face
Browse More Classics in Java Dome

Featured Route For Java Dome
JM on Beach Blanket Bingo. FFA, ground up bolt placements. Tim Hudgel/John McMullen.

Beach Blanket Bingo 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b  CO : South Platte : ... : South Face
This route is on Java Dome's south face. Find the directions to "Vertical Beach Party". This route is just to the left.Climb straight up a steep section, past 3 or 4 bolts, some old some new. This is great high stepping and reaching on good holds. The next sction is really cool too. Edge delicately up a dead planar slab past decently spaced old bolts to the anchor. This is a beautiful, flawless slab with nice edges and good rock. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Java Dome Add Comment
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By slim
Administrator
Jul 20, 2010

Leo, can you break the Java Dome down into 3 sub-sections:
North Face (Grey Wave Wall)
West Face
South Face

and then put traditionalists at work on the north face and big ugly chimney on the west face? The north face routes are more easily accessed from the Atlantis Slab approach, the south face from the Bali Dome approach, and the west face probably from either approach.

Thanks