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JARNI ZVRAT-KY 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jiri Vyhlidko, Adela Jandikova April 2009
Season: wen ever
Page Views: 430
Submitted By: Devin Fin on Mar 7, 2013
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rapping down on a nice March day..

Description 

Boulder move off the ground in to a roof fist slot that tapers down to tight fingers. Lock that finger down, reach left to a "jug" and pull yourself on to a great ledge. From there its good fingers for a move or two, stem left foot and grab some less then great rock out left which gets you to somewhat of a rest/good stem. Work up some crap rock in to a crisp and i mean crisp #2 camalots for 60 feet to a rest under the last crux! 00 C3's and some wicked stemming gets you over the roof now tips to the top...


Location 

Left of Binou's Crack 5.9 I mean left of Half Man/Half Alligator Shark 5.13 R. Its right next to a sweet tree. No Plaque.


Protection 

(5) blue tcus (3) 1 inch (5) #1 camalot's (1) #2 camalot (3) .4 camalot (1) #4 camalot (1)#3 camalot (2) .75 camalot



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By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Mar 8, 2013

could some one else get on this rout so we could get a solid conformation on the grade Slim n my self think 10 hard? so i posted it at 11-? with the creek getting nice i hope it see's some more traffic.. thanks DF

By Dustin B
From: Steamboat
Apr 26, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Good one! Even with the slight choss, I thought this one of the better routes in the area.

took 1-#1C3, 1-#2C3, 2-#.5 C4 Camalot, 2-#1, 2-#2 ,1-#3.

Thanks for posting this up.

By Jiri Vyhlidko
Sep 24, 2013

Hi Devin,
I am from Czech rep. and I did this rout with my girl ADELA JANDIKOVA. . . in April 2009 and official name is JARNI ZVRAT-KY 11+. . . . . . I can send to you some pic.....

thanks Jiri Vyhlidko

By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Sep 25, 2013

sweet thanks for the info .. cheers for finding such a gem... im going to put a good bolt at the anchor with a chain ... as the pitons are bomber but a bitch cuz every one who has a lil cord try,s to "fix" the anchor up. DF