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Another great pitch at the Cookie! It is easily as fun as any other 5.11 on the wall, more deserving than the single star the Don Reid guide gives it.
1. 5.10b. Access by climbing Anathema's first pitch to a spacious, shady belay ledge.
2. 5.11a. Climb the excellent 5.9 hand crack of Anathema pitch two. Continue straight up the steep corner above, passing two distinct thin cruxes with great, steep hands in between. A 70m rope just makes back to the belay ledge (35.5m).
Rack: nothing out of the ordinary.
Thanks to whoever installed the modern rap anchor on top!
From: Vacaville Ca.
Sep 30, 2013
I agree, this route is totally bitchen.
By Johnny Y
Feb 17, 2015
This is an amazing climb and I don't understand why it gets little traffic. Micros would be good for the crux, which I thought was harder and way more committing than any single move on catchy corner at the same grade.