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Willow River State Park
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Jar of Flies 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Josh Helke, Tarek Haddad and Jeff Engel - 1997
Page Views: 1,850
Submitted By: Tyler on Feb 8, 2006
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Roberto on Jar of Flies, circa 2005.
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Description 

This route had a bolt added to the crux and hours of work put into removing loose and dangerous rock in 2011. Well worth the time.
This climb is located on the left (not so steep) part of the wall. There's a small corner slightly off the ground; start to its right.
The proper sequence through the slight overhang will allow for 5.9 climbing.
Because of the crux section, it is not recommended for beginning leaders to learn on this route. Top rope it first a few times before giving it a lead burn. Get that crux dialed.
Gets some of the earliest sun of the day.


Protection 

guess.... Bolts. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.



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By Ian Harmon
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jul 18, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

After hear such horrible things about this route I was a little apprehensive to try it, but I finally did. To my surprise it was actually a fun climb, not stellar by any means but fun none the less. It is a little sandy at one section but otherwise I thought it was enjoyable. The fourth bolt at the crux is a spinner.

By Richard C
May 3, 2010

Although this route is rated 5.9 it is by no means easy or safe for the beginner climber, in the last six months I have seen two people get seriously (as in going to the hospital) injured on this route. Do not attempt to lead this if you are inexperienced at leading, go to Red Wing, get some experience, and come back to willow then, because willow is awesome, but breaking your face and going to the hospital is not.

By Sam Daley
From: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Apr 25, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Thanks to whoever added the extra bolt on this route. The bolt helps in two ways. First, it helps prevent the injuries that Richard is referencing. Second, it helps to keep the rope into the wall so you dont get your leg behind it. Willow now has a moderate feeling climb! That being said, keep Richard warning in mind. Climbing is dangerous!

By Tyler
Jun 27, 2012

This route simply needed a little love.
I added the bolt (sponsored by the MCA) and cleaned the route (removed loose sketchy rocks from the climb) for about 4.5 hours at last years' Willow River Cleanup (sponsored by the MN Bouldering Coop).
I climb it most times I am at Willow (2-3 times a week) and I truly enjoy the climb.
Richard (The Professional) is correct, make sure you are an experienced lead climber before getting on this route.
DO NOT clip the spinning-hanger-bolt out left. I will remove it.
If the anchor carabiners are looking worn, do not flip them upside down, REPLACE THEM. Everyone should give back a little to this gorgeous area.
Please do not write this route off--ITS WORTH THE TIME!