This enjoyable route follows a dihedral system to the left of the standard Pentapitch and finishes 30 feet above the last pitch anchor of Pentapitch at a large dead tree with slings.
Pitch 1: First pitch of Pentapitch or Neuromancer to the big ledge.
Pitch 2: Start on the far left of the big ledge and climb up a left facing dihedral. This pitch can be broken into two. Belay on the giant ledge shared with Pentapitch. 160' 5.7.
Pitch 3: From the far left edge of the giant ledge start up a left facing dihedral, pull through a bulge or two and belay at a large pine tree on a ledge strewn with boulders. 100' 5.7.
Pitch 4: Continue up yet another left facing dihedral. This is the best pitch with nice hands jams and laybacks. Very exposed near the top as you make a few moves to the right over a roof. Belay at a large dead tree with slings. This is the same pitch as the last on Coalpit Connection. 120' 5.8+.
Descent: Rappel Pentapitch.
This route starts from the ledge at the top of the 1st pitch of Pentapitch in a left facing dihedral.
Standard Rack, doubles on TCU's is nice, but not mandatory.
Leading Japanese Terraces
|By Andrew Gram|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 9, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I thought this was pretty nebulous until the last really cool dihedral section. Didn't seem to match up all that well with the topo in the Ruckman guide.
We climbed P1 of Pentapitch. From there, with a 70 meter went to near the end of the rope up the easy dihedral just left of Pentaptich. Belay was easy to set on a small ledge with a tree off to the side and a crack for a directional well above the huge ledge in the middle of P3 of Pentapitch. Forgettable 5.5ish pitch with some loose rock. After that, a long pitch up a pretty wild feeling dihedral and steep face to a tree just above the last anchor on pentapitch. Hard, strenuous, wild 5.8 and really worth doing after the blah opening.