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Japan Club 
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Japan Club 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Paul Piana, Mark Ilgner, 1983
Page Views: 173
Submitted By: Orphaned on Sep 27, 2010
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Description 

Japan Club has three distinct sections: flared fingers, flared hands, and a lieback. The opening flared finger portion is thin and balancy, but will accept reasonable pro in the form of stoppers and small cams. After overcoming the thin crux, enjoy a short section of good flared hands (in both main crack and side crack) before the crack peters out. Good foot cams move you into position to grasp the semi-solid lieback and high step on decent feet to glory.


Location 

Located 40 yards to the right of Wild Thing. We walked off by climbing almost to the top of the crag and traversing climber's left, eventually downclimbing as per Walking Up to Zion and Wild Thing.


Protection 

Set of stoppers, small cams. A BD #4 can be placed in the roof next to main crack if the small pro doesn't ease your mind.



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