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Japan Bouldering

Original Post
d0fuz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

Fellow Canadian looking for some climbers in Japan to boulder with indoor and especially outdoor. Will be in the country from Sep 25 - Oct 7. Will be travelling from Tokyo and out. Looking to do 1 day trips a few time out during the two week stay. Any contacts / advice would be awesome!

Would love to hear from some of you.
Thanks.

hikingdrew · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 38

Tokyo has a bunch of bouldering gyms, it's become a popular sport. Expect smaller facilities with American style pricing. The ratings are on their inverted kyu/dan scale and there seemed to be an ethic of one person on a wall section at a time.
timeout.jp/en/tokyo/feature…

hikingdrew · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 38
d0fuz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

Thanks for the reply! Loved that link. Anymore help from people that are in japan currently? Would love to climb with some locals/outdoor bouldering.

Halbert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 582

Send me a mail if you want some info from the Mitake topo. As it will be the easiest place for you to go bouldering outdoors. Topo is also for sale in most rock climbing gyms in Tokyo.

Alex Bury · · Ojai, CA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 2,376

I love hearing about the scene in Japan. The Kyu/Dan system is way better than the V scale (imo). More easy grades for beginners, and you are recognized as having entered black belt mastery after cranking your first V7+. Pretty cool system.

Halbert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 582

In the japanese system the grades are pretty wide, for example Shodan (1st Dan) includes both V7 and V8. Also it is hard to tell any difference in the very low kyu grades.
I personally prefer the french Fb system. (But who cares about grades anyway in the end).

Alex Bury · · Ojai, CA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 2,376

I added a plus to the V7 to make you happy. :^]
I like the broader grades. My opinion is that grades are too subjective for the V scale to really work well.
Also, the Japanese scale is open ended on BOTH sides. I've seen many new climbers become discouraged with bouldering because they can't get up a V1, not even all the VB's....the Japanese system offers a means to track progress in the lower grades and is therefore potentially more encouraging to beginners.

Halbert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 582

@d0fuz; mail sent.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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