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Jane's Getting Serious 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Bob Gaines and Rondo Powell, November 1987; FFA: Tom Herbert, December 1988
Page Views: 659
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Jane's Getting Serious; photo credit unk...

Description 

Around and left from EBGB's is this excellent route that sees even less traffic than it's neighbor.

An undercut and bouldery start (very reachy) leads to high-quality face moves that end atop the EBGB's block. Originally done with a point of aid at 5.11a A0, the route was later freed. There is an anchor in the center of the block (same as for EBGB's) and the rap is off bolts on the opposite side of the formation.


Protection 

6 bolts, anchors



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EBGB's Boulder
BETA PHOTO: EBGB's Boulder
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By Bob Gaines
Dec 22, 2008

I don't believe this route has been freed without a pile of cheat stones. On the first ascent, I brought some milk crates to stand on to drill the first bolt. Without cheat stones, you'll need the leaping abiltiy of Kobe Bryant just to jump up and latch the first handholds.

By Randy
Apr 6, 2010
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

My experience on this route (BITD) confirms what Bob states. Even with the cheat stones, the route was wicked hard.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Aug 9, 2014

Sounds like a job for Dean Potter. With his height and ape index the pile of stones likely wouldn't be an issue.