Jan and Jane Route
|1,678 page views|
Good page? (1 like)
BETA PHOTO: very rough beta shot of route, spot for anchors at...
This is a very fun, mixed climb on Spire Two. This routes first ascensionists were warming up for the first manless ascent of Devil's Tower in 1952. I think this route is infinitely better than the standard Conn route as you get out of the gully and into the sun.
P1. Start about 20 feet right of the Standard route start. The first piece of protection goes in about 20 feet off the ground. Continue climbing up with cracks to place gear in and things to sling the entire way. The funnest move on this climb is a step from a block back to the main wall. I placed a piece before this move, but it is easy, just a little awkward. At about 160 feet you will get to a ledge where you set up a trad anchor for belay. I used a #2 and #3 Camelot and slung a big boulder, but there are many other options.
P2. At this point you have two options. 1: Climb up and left to the bolted anchors at end of the standard route to get to balcony point or 2: climb up and right to the other summit clipping 2 bolts and sparse gear along the way.
The crux of the climb for me was the end of the first pitch the protection is good however and it is more awkward than difficult.
about 20 feet right of the start for the Standard route.
Rappel to the second anchor of the standard route with a single rope and do a two rope rappel down the gully from this point to the ground.(60 meter rope)
There are cracks everywhere that take any size nut. I also used cams from #.4 to a #4.
Standard Rack and lots of single and double slings.
Joel Hagan leading the First pitch of the Jan and ...
Joel jumping across from the false summit of spire...
Jeff J. on the first pitch of Jan and Jane