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Jan and Jane Route
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British PG13
Avg: 3.3 from 40
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Routes in Spire Two
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Aspire To T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jan and Jane Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Route 4 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Stone of Tangible Truth T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jan Conn and Jane Showacre |
| Page Views: | 4,134 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | joelhagan Hagan on Mar 28, 2007 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
This is a very fun, mixed climb on Spire Two. This routes first ascensionists were warming up for the first manless ascent of Devil's Tower in 1952. I think this route is infinitely better than the standard Conn route as you get out of the gully and into the sun.
P1. Start about 20 feet right of the Standard route start. The first piece of protection goes in about 20 feet off the ground. Continue climbing up with cracks to place gear in and things to sling the entire way. The funnest move on this climb is a step from a block back to the main wall. I placed a piece before this move, but it is easy, just a little awkward. At about 160 feet you will get to a ledge where you set up a trad anchor for belay. I used a #2 and #3 Camelot and slung a big boulder, but there are many other options.
P2. At this point you have two options. 1: Climb up and left to the bolted anchors at end of the standard route to get to balcony point or 2: climb up and right to the other summit clipping 2 bolts and sparse gear along the way.
The crux of the climb for me was the end of the first pitch the protection is good however and it is more awkward than difficult.
P1. Start about 20 feet right of the Standard route start. The first piece of protection goes in about 20 feet off the ground. Continue climbing up with cracks to place gear in and things to sling the entire way. The funnest move on this climb is a step from a block back to the main wall. I placed a piece before this move, but it is easy, just a little awkward. At about 160 feet you will get to a ledge where you set up a trad anchor for belay. I used a #2 and #3 Camelot and slung a big boulder, but there are many other options.
P2. At this point you have two options. 1: Climb up and left to the bolted anchors at end of the standard route to get to balcony point or 2: climb up and right to the other summit clipping 2 bolts and sparse gear along the way.
The crux of the climb for me was the end of the first pitch the protection is good however and it is more awkward than difficult.
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