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 ADVANCED
The Shakespearean Theatre & Revolution Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Lives of Quiet Desperation T 
Butterfly McQueens' Birthday TR 
Jamuary T,TR 
King Fear T 
Mind Meld S 
Much Ado About Bolting S,TR 
Revolution, The S 
Shakespur S 
Taming of Shoe, The S 
Two Hangdogs of Verona, The S 

Jamuary 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown (Hanson et. al?)
Page Views: 404
Submitted By: Dan Mottinger on Dec 28, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Revolution Buttress Area.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This steep crack, to the immediate right of Butterfly McQueens' Birthday provides a long crack with several short crux sections between good to decent rests. Although it is flared, it has enough non-flared placements to protect it well with nuts and fingers to hand-sized cams. One bouldery move leads to a good ledge where the fun begins, go up the crack using jams and face holds and cobbles. The crux comes 3/4 of the way up and involves pulling over a roof using face holds while reaching for jams above. This is one of the better trad lines I've been on at Castlewood--steep climbing up a continuous crack that offers good pro.

Note: The line I marked Jamuary in the beta photo is really Butterfly McQueens' Birthday, Jamuary is the obvious, marked crack below and right of the Jamuary label in the pic.

Protection 

Standard rack up to #2 Friend. Offsets could help but are not necessary. Bring a really long sling or extra rope to anchor this climb. You might be able to anchor off The Revolution's cold shuts, but these are not accesible from the top.


Photos of Jamuary Slideshow Add Photo
Dan leading up Jamuary. Photo by Tom Mottinger.
Dan leading up Jamuary. Photo by Tom Mottinger.

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