|James Brown Area
This sweet route starts with some thin technical moves right off the deck and stays sustained pretty much to the top.
Climbs the face just to the left of the opening into the small canyon.
|By Drew Peterson|
Mar 28, 2008
Maybe I missed something, but this was horrible off the deck. An awkward first clip leads to nothing... I ended up backing off the route after the first bolt. My partner couldn't get any further either, and we both onsight 12ish. I completely respect those that say that this is a great route, and I might have missed something, but I give it zero stars. The 11d around to the right (furthest route up the gully) however was fantastic... best route of the day! I'll take the good with the bad.
|By Ross Fadely|
Mar 23, 2009
Have to disagree with the above. This is a great, super technical climb that is tricky to onsight. Truly an amazing face route. The start takes a little bit more thinking than the rest, but dont miss this if you are in the area!
Nov 10, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13
I agree, in a way, with both of the above posts. This is an amazing route with great technical movement. It is, however, very sandbagged in my opinion. I think this is especially true if you are on the shorter side. To me it felt 12- and a very tough onsight at that grade. It is consistently tough from the get go until the top of the brown rock. This may be why the OP didn't care for it. The sandbag gave his ego a boot to the groin. I know it did mine. It doesn't seem fair, though, to give a route no stars if you didn't climb past the 1st bolt.
The first run-out (before the second to last bolt) seemed a little sketchy to me, also. I have to question the wisdom of sandbagging a route that is going to get 5.11 climbers pumped out of their mind then expect them to stay solid on sandy slopers and questionable rock with their feet ten feet above a bolt they can't see on an unforgiving slab below. I know I let slip a few choice words about "old school" bolting and route grading tendencies as I climbed this otherwise amazing pitch.
|By Drew Peterson|
Mar 9, 2010
Good call - not fair to give it a bad rating when I didn't even do it. I erased my vote, but still feel the same about the start. I should get back on it, in all fairness. Thanks.
|By Tavis Ricksecker|
From: Bishop, ca
Mar 17, 2010
Agree with all of the above. Moves are very hard for the grade, more like 11+.. Maybe something broke? Very hard move right at the first bolt, but it is possible.. Then a scary off balance clip at the second. Then sustained climbing to the fifth. Also the two runouts above were a bit scary, especially getting to bolt #6. Nonetheless I think this is a great climb, especially if you expect 11d moves instead of 11b.