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Sunnyside Bench
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Loyd Price, Kim Schmitz. FFA: Kim Schmitz, Jim Madsen.
Page Views: 6,725
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (220)
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Jack Doehring on "Jamcrack", 1975. Photo...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Up on the right side of Sunnyside Bench, climb a nice, smooth, 5.7 jamcrack to a ledge. Step left and continue up a 5.9 thin crack to a two bolt anchor.
Can be done in one or two pitches.


Pro to 2".

Photos of Jamcrack Slideshow Add Photo
Jamcrack on a mellow rainy afternoon...
Jamcrack on a mellow rainy afternoon...
"Jamcrack Route". Photo by Blitzo.
"Jamcrack Route". Photo by Blitzo.
Jamcrack sweetness
Jamcrack sweetness
Tyson G on jamcrack
Tyson G on jamcrack
5.7 First Pitch
5.7 First Pitch

Comments on Jamcrack Add Comment
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By Dennis
Mar 11, 2008

Climbed Jamcrack this weekend for the second time in 10 years. It was so much fun! Best to leave a long sling on the last piece before the ledge and combine P1 and 2.
By Steve R.
From: Oakland, CA
May 21, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun Climb! Didn't feel like a Valley 5.9 though-maybe 5.8. Good pro, solid stances and fun climbing.
By Linnea Williams
Oct 4, 2009

Nice, well protected, fun climbing. I'm a fan.
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great climbing. First pitch is great for budding trad leaders.
By daniel c
From: San Francisco, CA
Mar 25, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Found a cam on Jamcrack on March 21, 2010. Drop me a line if you think its yours.
By Wesley Ashwood
From: Squamish, BC
Aug 2, 2010

Fun climb although the nice crack on the second pitch is a little short. You can TR a few fun 10s as well from the top of the 1st pitch.
By Rodger Raubach
Mar 16, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I climbed this with an Aussie climber, Harry Burr, and Greg Ervin. I led pitch 1 and Greg took pitch 2. Fun climb, cool and sunny day.
By Will Wilson
From: Morganton, nc
Oct 27, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I love the climb but it was soo polished, especially at the beginning of the route.
By Worster than you
From: Lafayette, CA
Mar 24, 2013

If the p1 bolts are camped, you can make a good gear anchor at the top of p1 crack w/ 0.5 camelot and the metolius range below that.
By Crimpanzee
From: San Francisco, California
Nov 17, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Personally, I think the hardest part of Jamcrack is the first 15 feet of the first pitch. It's polished and steep for 5.7, and I would call it more 5.8. I think the second pitch is just about as hard as this section (and a little easier than other 5.9 pitches in the valley).