Jamcrack Spire is a large flatiron by most definitions, but still has relatively few routes. In width and dwarfs its northern neighbor, the Maiden. This massive chunk of rock is both Wide and Tall, but lacks the tall North and south faces that make the Maiden spectacular. The massive East Face is lower angle than some other flatirons, but is still a significant climb. has no published East Face routes, despite ample terrain and features for a few independent lines. If it were closer to a trailhead, I am sure it would get more attention. As well, the West side of this flatiron is quite large and featured it holds a handful of trad lines with potential for more, some solid cracks. The lack of popularity of this crag insures that you will be there alone if you go, but also that the rock has more potential hazard from lack of travel. To descend from this rock, go to the central area of the West Face and rap on trees with a long rope, 2 ropes, or a series of 2 raps from trees. Please consider taking a length of webbing to refurbish existing anchors. As with other area rocks, this one is affected by the seasonal closure, which of course is 'for the birds.' Raptors that is...
The approach to this rock's East Face is the same as for the Maiden, but go to the South from the base of the Maiden to reach the East face. A rocky wash traces the base for a while before it becomes a fern gully. To approach the West Face, proceed as for the Devil's Thumb or Tower of the Moon. From the Mesa Trail, having passed below the Matron, continue on and up into the Shadow Canyon Trail until just west of this rock. It is a LARGE West face and is distinguished by its oddly forked twin spires when viewed from the south. Once due west of the rock, perhaps just past a "bear" sign and a large boulder, head up the talus to reach the base.
5 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Jamcrack Spire:
Southeast Chimney 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a Trad, 4 pitches, 600'
North Wide Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Left Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Right One 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Featured Route For Jamcrack Spire
Left Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a CO : Flatirons : ... : Jamcrack Spire
Although Rossiter rated this line and the one to its right more conservatively than I and my partner thought they should be, he also did not show where these lines started, and thus, we feel he may not have done them the same way or had complete information on these routes. We felt this one was 5.9, not 5.8...Climb up a few flakes to the left-most of the two nearly parallel left-slanting cracks on the West end of the North face. Place [gear] and continue up and left until the crack reaches the a...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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