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Jamcrack Spire

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Jamcrack Spire 


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Location: 39.9479, -105.2869 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 18, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: From left to right... The Tower of The Moon (small...
  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Jamcrack Spire is a large flatiron by most definitions, but still has relatively few routes. In width and dwarfs its northern neighbor, the Maiden. This massive chunk of rock is both Wide and Tall, but lacks the tall North and south faces that make the Maiden spectacular. The massive East Face is lower angle than some other flatirons, but is still a significant climb. has no published East Face routes, despite ample terrain and features for a few independent lines. If it were closer to a trailhead, I am sure it would get more attention. As well, the West side of this flatiron is quite large and featured it holds a handful of trad lines with potential for more, some solid cracks. The lack of popularity of this crag insures that you will be there alone if you go, but also that the rock has more potential hazard from lack of travel. To descend from this rock, go to the central area of the West Face and rap on trees with a long rope, 2 ropes, or a series of 2 raps from trees. Please consider taking a length of webbing to refurbish existing anchors. As with other area rocks, this one is affected by the seasonal closure, which of course is 'for the birds.' Raptors that is...


    Getting There 

    The approach to this rock's East Face is the same as for the Maiden, but go to the South from the base of the Maiden to reach the East face. A rocky wash traces the base for a while before it becomes a fern gully. To approach the West Face, proceed as for the Devil's Thumb or Tower of the Moon. From the Mesa Trail, having passed below the Matron, continue on and up into the Shadow Canyon Trail until just west of this rock. It is a LARGE West face and is distinguished by its oddly forked twin spires when viewed from the south. Once due west of the rock, perhaps just past a "bear" sign and a large boulder, head up the talus to reach the base.


    5 Total Routes


    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


    Featured Route For Jamcrack Spire
    Search & rescue (?) doing some hover training around the Jamcrack Spire.  The left crack is shown by the red dotted line.  Easy downclimb (with one very exposed move) is possible from where the route breaks to the summit down to the tree.  It's a scramble down from there.

    Left Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CO : Flatirons : ... : Jamcrack Spire
    Although Rossiter rated this line and the one to its right more conservatively than I and my partner thought they should be, he also did not show where these lines started, and thus, we feel he may not have done them the same way or had complete information on these routes. We felt this one was 5.9, not 5.8...Climb up a few flakes to the left-most of the two nearly parallel left-slanting cracks on the West end of the North face. Place [gear] and continue up and left until the crack reaches the a...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Local Information for Jamcrack Spire
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    Photos of Jamcrack Spire Slideshow Add Photo
    Peeking through the Crow's Nest at Jamcrack Spire.
    Peeking through the Crow's Nest at Jamcrack Spire.
    Jamcrack Spire (Rt) and The Maiden (L) as seen from the NW in afternoon light.
    Jamcrack Spire (Rt) and The Maiden (L) as seen fro...
    Shadow Canyon from the Mesa Trail at midmorning. The crags on the right-side skyline, from near to far, are: <br />Tower Of the Moon & Jamcrack Spire <br />The Pyramid <br />Devil's Thumb <br />West Face of Devil's Wings <br />Sunset Wall. <br />Photo by Tony Bubb, 11/07.
    Shadow Canyon from the Mesa Trail at midmorning. T...
    Viewed from the South, Jamcrack Spire has an imposing profile.
    BETA PHOTO: Viewed from the South, Jamcrack Spire has an impos...
    The North Face of the North Summit of Jamcrack Spire.  The route 'Center One' (10a) follows the obvious, sunny, left-facing corner to cracks, and 'Right For Grapenuts' follows the arete just left, dividing sun and shade.  Left Crack ascends a curving crack on the shaded North Face.
    BETA PHOTO: The North Face of the North Summit of Jamcrack Spi...
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