BETA PHOTO: 1) Mother's Day (5.9+ G)
2) Jay's Fingers
3) I Wan...
Forested crag has some bouldering, some top-roping, and some trad routes. Overhanging through slabby. Relatively short. Rock is excellent fine granite, maybe schist, with good protection in general. Be careful of some large blocks that look potentially dangerous.
No fixed gear here. Anchor on pine trees. Please walk off -- do not rappel off the trees to prevent killing them with rope burn when pulling the rope.
The routes generally are a bit mossy and with lichens, so be careful. A little cleanup would be useful, but try not to go on a killing spree.
Park near Jamaica ballfield at intersection of 30 and 100. Walk 50m into left field forest, or down short path from highway 30.
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BETA PHOTO: 2) Jay's Fingers
3) I Want My Mommy
4) I Want My M...
From: Sheffield, UK
May 13, 2012
My brother and I found this area through local knowledge, which claims that there are some good bouldering problems and top-ropes here. We went with low expectations, but found a nice, medium-short crag with excellent fine schist or maybe granite, and we decided to start leading on it. We got shut down by I Want My Mommy and I Want My Mommy Direct (see photos), which have difficult and poorly protected crux moves (10+/11), but found Mother's Day quite enjoyable!
In general, this area is underdeveloped. With a little more traffic and some clean up, quite a few more rocks up there could have some decent trad lines and definitely some bouldering problems, but most of the stuff here is wicked mossy, and even covered in ferns. My guess is that it's not worth the effort, and will not expand from the presently established lines and problems. Definitely worth checking out if you happen to be in the area, but don't travel from too far.
In the photos, I've put up lines that I'm certain will be good TRs or even good trad leads, but we didn't get the chance to climb them, so I haven't described them. Go get that crack!
Also, we've named and graded stuff that's surely been climbed before (I guess it's possible nobody has lead it...?). If you are familiar with canonical names and grades, please let me know, and I'll be happy to change them.