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Jamaica vt

Original Post
geno · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

Hi all,
I'm looking for some climbing in Southern VT, I'm in Chester area allot on weekends and would love to find a crag that's less then an hour away for an afternoon run. I've heard about someplace near Jamaica, but haven't found it yet, does anyone have gps cords?

Derek Doucet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 66
geno wrote:Hi all, I'm looking for some climbing in Southern VT, I'm in Chester area allot on weekends and would love to find a crag that's less then an hour away for an afternoon run. I've heard about someplace near Jamaica, but haven't found it yet, does anyone have gps cords?
It's listed in the routes section of the Vermont page, cleverly hidden under the cryptic title "Jamaica". Admittedly not much route information there, but it does provide directions...
geno · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

Thanks i will try and scout it out, any issue with private land anything of the sort,

And is there any other locations around locally?

Thanks allot

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945

You Vermonters.... JAMAICAN ME CRAZY!!! Sorry couldn't resist.

Derek Doucet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 66
geno wrote:Thanks i will try and scout it out, any issue with private land anything of the sort, And is there any other locations around locally? Thanks allot
Don't know. I've only been once, and wouldn't bother returning, personally. I noted no private property signes while there.

I'm not especially familar with other southern VT crags, but you're not far from Rose Ledge in Northfield, MA, which is a decent little crag.
Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945

Derek - shoot a PM over to Rogerk - I'm pretty sure he's in S. VT and does a fair amount of exploring and knows of some good stuff. Last I heard people were finding lots of overhanging limestone caves.

Jason Hayden · · North Clarendon, VT · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 9,585

Roger is in northern VT. I would suggest Dear Leap which is about 45 minutes from Chester. It has great routes, a beautiful view, a short approach, and an awesome pub at the bottom. mountainproject.com/v/deer-…

Scope everything out as many routes are mixed - trad/sport. Left side of the main cliff is trad or top rope only. Great stuff 5.6-5.11+

geno · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

Thanks a lot. I will be back in two weeks. I'll check it out then.

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945

Rogerk probably still knows what's up... maybe not, but worth a try!

rogerk klinger · · Burlington, VT · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,603
CaptainMo wrote:Rogerk probably still knows what's up... maybe not, but worth a try!
The good stuff that I know about is more around the Killington area. The Killington area as a whole has the potential to become VT's best bouldering, although it's made of several spread out smaller areas of 25-100 problems. The real authority to get in contact with is freezeus.
TheBirdman Friedman · · Eldorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 65
CaptainMo wrote:Derek - shoot a PM over to Rogerk - I'm pretty sure he's in S. VT and does a fair amount of exploring and knows of some good stuff. Last I heard people were finding lots of overhanging limestone caves.
Limestone in VT? I'll have to see it to believe it.

There is a small crag is So. Royalton, although the bouldering is better. Also, not to threadjack, but if anyone in VT is interested in developing a crag, I know of a few hidden ones that would be ripe for development. A few are seriously impressive. Shoot me a PM if you'd like some information.
rogerk klinger · · Burlington, VT · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,603

I just realized, that from Chester, Killington is < 1 hour. geno, you should definitely start with the DEKD boulders.

Warm up by doing everything on the the Spring Sliding Boulder.
After that, definitely see
Man Overboard:
Stinger Mantis
Dirty Crack
Jamaican Lager
Ham Bone
Bacon

With about ~100 problems already and at least 15-20 left to be done, this place will keep you busy for a while, even if not all the problems are great quality.. And I know there are at least 4 other areas near by, albeit with less current development.

rogerk klinger · · Burlington, VT · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,603
TheBirdman wrote: Limestone in VT? I'll have to see it to believe it. There is a small crag is So. Royalton, although the bouldering is better. Also, not to threadjack, but if anyone in VT is interested in developing a crag, I know of a few hidden ones that would be ripe for development. A few are seriously impressive. Shoot me a PM if you'd like some information.
Birdman,
There is plenty of limestone in VT, specifically in the regions near lake Champlain and the valley between the Taconics and the Greens.

About 10-13 years ago, there was a good deal of limestone development along northern Lake Champlain. Unfortunately, it was all on private property, and got shut down.

Around the same time, there was a good little limestone crag developed in Middlebury. It was ruined by dry-tooling. It's along the TAM south of the dam on Middlebury Creek if you really need to see to believe.
Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

get the northern VT guide Tough Shist it has some great info even if a lot of areas are missing. the deer leap info is relativly up to date. The skyship area in Killington has a few really cool climbs but a large hemlock tree is listing and kind of wants to fall down on or near the crag. i am certain the top outs of all the climbs there need cleaning out as it gets little traffic. a good pumpy 10b and a wild 12a and a 5.9

Jason Hayden · · North Clarendon, VT · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 9,585

I second Nicks suggestion for the skyeship climbs...listed on some sites as Mission Farm as that's the road. The 12 is pretty pumpy...haven't checked out the tipping tree, the climbs are bolted( thanks to those who bolted them!) and I believe there are one or two pitons.

Have fun!

Jason Hayden · · North Clarendon, VT · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 9,585
Limestone arete
Limestone arete in central VT. Tons and tons of limestone cliff bands...old timers called them choss as you can't trad climb them safely but they are solid, take bolts well and sweet. PM me if you ever want a tour of central vt bouldering or limestone.

Birdman...careful on the crag development in the royalton- sharon neck of the woods as I'm working with landowners on a few of those and they are very up in the air but leaning towards allowing climbers...message me if you want to help get access.
Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Mission farm/skyship. from left to right. monkey and the enginere 10b 4 bolts to chains. (can not see the 3rd and 4th bolt from the ground) The Great White Shark Hunt 12a line of bolts up the obvious layback flake. Groove and thrash 5.8 crawl up the groove on top of the sharks fin on yer belly. trad gear. can not remember for the life of me what we called the 5.9 with single bolt and a pin? some dead theamed name I would imagin? sit staRT, boulder out right and turn the roof step back left, bolt, pin and turn the overlap to chains. whole thing needs a serious scrub as it has not seen much activity in recent years. best after a dry spell. great in the late fall after the leaves are off the trees. sunny and sheltered in the afternoon. I lead bolted that stuff BINTD rope solo.

geno · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

Thanks guys, I'm looking forward to checking it all out, i have some 3 days weekends in August to get out.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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