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 ADVANCED
Bitty Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A's Jax T 
Bitty Buttress T 
Buzz, The S 
Electricity T,S 
Hand is Quicker than the Eye, The T,S 
Holy Ascension T,TR 
Jaguary T 
Jam Left T 
Jitters, The S 
Lorax, The S 
Mirage (aka Right Crack) T 
Moby Dike S 
Peach Monkey S 
Peapod T 
Return To Sender S 
Reveille T,S 
Rise and Shine S 
South T 
Spins, The T,S 
Treetop Landing T 
Welcome Home S 

Jam Left 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 866
Submitted By: tobias on Jan 20, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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The route "left crack" Takes the long ja...

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Description 

This route is on the Peapod Buttress, or "south face of Bitty Buttress." It's left of and up from Bitty Buttress by about thirty-forty yards. It's sheltered by a couple of average-sized evergreens, but still gets good sun in the winter. The route is the middle of the three cracks, to the right of a couple of newer bolts and the route Jaguary.

This is a short but rather burly route. I'd have thought it was a 10.... There's a jam left, yes, but there's also a good jam right just above it. Placing gear burned me a bit, but all that's needed is 3-4 cams. There's a rappel anchor above and to the right, perfect for top-roping "Last crack on the right" if interested.

The short, pumpy routes here are worth jumping on if you're in the area for Bitty Buttress and want to turn it up a notch, or want to work some tougher lines while staying close to the ground. "Jam Left" is not starred in "Boulder Climbs North", but I thought the crux sequence was a fun grunt and good way to end the afternoon, so I gave it a couple.

Protection 

Cams #1.5-2.5.


Photos of Jam Left Slideshow Add Photo
Jamming on jam crack right (10a).
Jamming on jam crack right (10a).
The climb in in the center, not where the rope is.
BETA PHOTO: The climb in in the center, not where the rope is.

Comments on Jam Left Add Comment
Show which comments
By morkel
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 26, 2006

10a, one star for me.
By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 2, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I don't think there is an anchor for this route.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Nov 9, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

There is no bolt anchor for this route or to its immediate left. You can easily make a gear anchor, and there is a large block you can sling. The D'Antonio guide shows there is an anchor that is not there. The only bolt anchor is above Razor Hein Stick.