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Bitty Buttress
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Jam Left 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 829
Submitted By: tobias on Jan 20, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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The route "left crack" Takes the long jagged crack...

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  • Description 

    This route is on the Peapod Buttress, or "south face of Bitty Buttress." It's left of and up from Bitty Buttress by about thirty-forty yards. It's sheltered by a couple of average-sized evergreens, but still gets good sun in the winter. The route is the middle of the three cracks, to the right of a couple of newer bolts and the route Jaguary.

    This is a short but rather burly route. I'd have thought it was a 10.... There's a jam left, yes, but there's also a good jam right just above it. Placing gear burned me a bit, but all that's needed is 3-4 cams. There's a rappel anchor above and to the right, perfect for top-roping "Last crack on the right" if interested.

    The short, pumpy routes here are worth jumping on if you're in the area for Bitty Buttress and want to turn it up a notch, or want to work some tougher lines while staying close to the ground. "Jam Left" is not starred in "Boulder Climbs North", but I thought the crux sequence was a fun grunt and good way to end the afternoon, so I gave it a couple.


    Protection 

    Cams #1.5-2.5.



    Photos of Jam Left Slideshow Add Photo
    Jamming on jam crack right (10a).
    Jamming on jam crack right (10a).
    The climb in in the center, not where the rope is.
    BETA PHOTO: The climb in in the center, not where the rope is.
    Comments on Jam Left Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By morkel
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Nov 26, 2006

    10a, one star for me.

    By James Beissel
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 2, 2009
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

    I don't think there is an anchor for this route.

    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Littleton
    Nov 9, 2013
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

    There is no bolt anchor for this route or to its immediate left. You can easily make a gear anchor, and there is a large block you can sling. The D'Antonio guide shows there is an anchor that is not there. The only bolt anchor is above Razor Hein Stick.