Jam Crack Route
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walk up as if your were trying to get behind the p...
This route is on the main wall on the right end of the cliff approx. 100 left of a pinnacle. Look for the obvious, prominent crack.
Pitch one, 5.6:Climb the crack, with good protection up to the anchors. If memory serves me correctly, I believe I passed what appeared to be a rappel anchor and belayed on a sandy notch/ledge. But obviously use your best judgement.
Pitch two, 5.5:Continue up and move slightly to the left until your rope runs out or to a convenient belay spot.
Pitch three, 5.5:Continue straight up to the top of the cliff or angle left on easier ramps moving upward to gain the top of the cliff.
The last two pitches are obviously easier than the first, however the protection is a little bit harder to come by, so beginners (or the responsible) should not pass up placements on the last two pitches.
To the motivated bolt placing experienced climber: This is a great wall, but the descent takes away from the experience. In my humble opinion, a bolted rappel line down this wall would benefit the community. I would be willing to help anyone that feels comfortable in that role.
Descent (two options):Head south (left) from the top of the wall to a gully which is the southern end of the main wall. Two 60 foot rappels are needed to reach the base of the wall. The gully however is full of really big loose rocks, etc. and makes the descent seem kind of sketchy.
Continue south to the next gully that seems appealing and downclimb back to the base of the wall. This isn't much fun either, but you don't have to rappel.
Standard trad rack.
tony at the first belay
tony at the top
|Comments on Jam Crack Route
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 11, 2005
The bolted easy route III, DOWN AND DIRTY DOUBLECROSS, 5.6-7 to the top pf the cliff located about 100 feet to the left of the Jam Crack allows 5 bolted rappels with a single 60m rope. This should serve as an easy and quick rap route for all Mule Hollow routes on this side. should not be difficult to locate if searching from the top.
|By Shaun Greene|
Jun 12, 2006
This is a route not to be missed. We did the rappel using two 60 meter ropes. This will allow you to rappel past the first set of ancbors you come to. At the third set of chains make a short rappell then from the next set of chains you can rappel past the next set of anchors and be on the ground.
|By john gilchrist|
From: sLC, utah
Jul 9, 2006
I would suggest climbing past the first set of anchors and assend to the anchors that have chains and a nicer area to belay from not to far from the first set. Pull the overhangy mess becuase it's their. Go straight up to the top, you will be able to see some chains 100 feet to the left and half way up that belong to another climb don't go for them like I did.
|By Jason Billings|
From: Draper, UT
Jul 31, 2006
Unless you are looking for more of an alpine experience, I'd take an extra rope an rap at the chains after the first long pitch. It's not that the next two pitches aren't fun, they are just extremely mild, but the rock is excellent. Beware of raspberry bushes.
Jul 23, 2007
A single 60m rope will work on the decent rap for all but the THIRD rap. It comes up about 10 ft shy of the next anchor.
|By Tosh Peters|
From: Park City, UT
Oct 11, 2007
rating: 5.6 PG13
the first pitch is worth the hike and the second two are really good too if your confident pretty far above gear. the aformentioned rap route is scary with a 60 meter rope as the 3rd rap is too long. we did it in a little over 7 hours car to car and didnt see a single other climber. definitly cool.
From: West Jordan, UT
Aug 18, 2008
After reading john's comment above that suggests skipping the first anchors that one comes upon, I found myself at the end of a 70m rope, establishing a gear belay. I saw no other anchors on the way up, so be smarter than I was, and stop in the alcove below the "overhangy mess" and take advantage of the chains. From there, go up, trend left, and find another very comfy belay ledge with chains. Straight up from there, between the very visible last chains of "Down and Dirty" on the face and the gully on the right, is easy climbing on some remarkable holds with ample protection. Chains on the top of D & D were obvious.
Jul 14, 2009
It is easy to get off route on this climb. And there are multiple pitch variations and Rap Options. An adventurous climb worth doing all the pitches if you already slogged up there.
|By Mark Parrett|
Aug 17, 2009
Did this route yesterday and would say that P1 is worth it but the rest really is not worth climbing.
Also, to clarify on the above comments, when climbing P1, there is a two bolt anchor with some aging cord and fixe links. We stopped and belayed here, but if you continue up about 15 feet, you hit a belay station with chains, and the belay is much more comfortable. If you pass those and pull the overhanging block, no more anchors to the top.
Sep 20, 2009
we climbed it today. pretty good quality rock. after that hike, i'd definitely do all 3 pitches. skip the blue-cord anchor on the way up, as noted in the above comment---go another 20 feet to an alcove.
the upper pitches are fun low-angle jug-fests---i didnt feel runout too badly, (but for sure the few placements are tricky). as mentioned, dont go to the chain anchor that you can see from the second belay....that must be a convenient rap anchor if you only have a single 60.
the last 15 minutes of the approach kind of sucked and we had to bushwack a bit to get back on the "trail". We were right on 5 hours car to car.
Gear: go lighter than we did. you dont NEED a number 3 camalot or anything larger than a 2 (we placed the #3 once, just 'cuz we had it). I'd take medium to large stoppers, 2 number 1 cams, 2 number 2's, a .75, a .5 and a few smaller units (C3's or TCUs were good---probably went in on all pitches). We only used about half of our rack. I put long runners on the stoppers and we maybe used 1 quickdraw elsewhere (we had 6 QDs). Anyway, my point is that the rack can be lighter than what we took, especially with the nice fixed belays. Next time, I'd just take a 70 M rope and leave the second cord behind.
From: Salt Lake City, Ut
May 9, 2012
First pitch is great, last two forgettable. Do the 5.7 if you are going to hike up to this wall.