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This route can be done as a variation for the 3rd pitch of the popular Walt's Wall Route. The guidebook rates it at 5.5, but I have done 5.8 sport routes that felt very similar to this one, so don't count on a walk up. (This is Vedauwoo!). However, it is fun and the rock is as good as it gets.
This route is located about 20 feet left of the second anchor on Walt's Wall Route. Make an exposed, unprotected traverse over to a spot below the obvious bolt and start climbing. Clip the second bolt and tip toe carefully up the remaining unprotected slab (no pro options). Descend as per Walt's Wall Route.
There are only two bolts on the entire pitch with a long run out at the end. Granted it gets easier the further you get up, but a slip would be quite nasty. Also if you traverse right to the bolt anchor at the top of the traditional Walt's Wall finish you will be exposing your second (who at this level could be maybe inexperienced) to some scary traversing. Better to set a trad anchor at the top in the big crack and then traverse over the the rappel anchor.
|Comments on Jake's Variation
|By Rodger Raubach|
Mar 8, 2011
rating: 5.6 PG13
Not all that hard, but don't fall leading it. After the first clip, your heart rate will settle down. Oh, yeah, this is NOT a "sport" climb.