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Jailhouse Rock
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Jailbreak 

5.12

   
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Type: Sport, 40 feet
Consensus: 5.12 [details]
FA: Joe Shiefman, ERuljancich, HUzzelle, JBak, May 2010 (drilled by Jbak on a wet, snowy day, Dec 2006)
Season: Usually shady and breezy after noon, so always bring warm clothes
Submitted By: jbak on Mar 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Just a little crimpy...

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Description 

Ultra-sustained, harder than either SENTENCED or FINGER PRINCE. The higher you go the harder it gets (as it should be). Crimpy, espec. up high.


Location 

To the right of SENTENCED TO HANG, two routes start off a ledge about 6 feet off the deck. The left-hand of the two routes is JAILBREAK.


Protection 

bolts and chains



Photos of Jailbreak Slideshow Add Photo
The usual suspects! EFR on his way to an awesome, but decidedly tenuous redpoint.  What a bad ass!

The usual suspects! EFR on his way to an awesome, ...

Joe on Jailbreak. Eric Ruljancich on belay. Photo by Jim Scott.

Joe on Jailbreak. Eric Ruljancich on belay. Photo ...

Gier...

Gier...

Joe trying to break!

Joe trying to break!

Pumped?

Pumped?


Comments on Jailbreak Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 21, 2010
By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 31, 2008

Is this route still red-tagged?

By Jimbo
Jan 2, 2009

If Joe has finally sent this thing all the bolt hangers should be there. If not you might want to give it a serious once over before you start up, as a hanger or two might not be there.

By jbak
Jan 2, 2009

Yes...still red-tagged.

By Neill Prohaska
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 11, 2010

Not still red-tagged, is it?

By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Feb 11, 2010
rating: 5.12

Still red-tagged.

By JoeS
Feb 13, 2010

Thanks Eric for pointing out that the fellow who had bolted the route, namely me, is still interested in getting the FA.

This has gotten embarrassing. Although it is a good route, I sometime wish I hadn't bolted it. I keep getting close (1 fall numerous times and not all at the same place) and then the weather changes or I can't find a belayer, and then many months go by. On top of that Prison Camp is so popular and crowded. Not a great place to work a grade that is hard for you. Many times too nyumerous to count, well intending folks come up and ask "Hey, you get your project yet?". Even one or two folks whom I had never seen in my life have come up to me and asked if I sent my project.

I'm obsessing. It's not that large a problem in the scheme of things.

Bottom line, I haven't been on it for months again, but I'm climbing stronger than I was before and am pschyed to get it this spring, starting when the temps in town get above 80 degrees. I will even committ 3-4 days a week until it sends (if I can get someone to catch me)

I really appreciate everyone's patience and encouragement, and I will post it immediately once it gos, hopefully soon.

Joe

By jbak
Feb 14, 2010

Alternate name: Statute of Limitations

Seriously though Joe, you dialed in that route at Homme Depot pretty fast. I think you're ready for Jailbreak.

My list of undone projects is now about as long as my arm.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 18, 2010

Seems more like Life Without Parole!

By jbak
Mar 18, 2010

ouch

By jbak
May 7, 2010

May 7, 2010: Pima County Sheriff's office reports that Joseph "Lil Bull" Shiefman broke out of jail sometime in the early PM. He was aided in his escape by one Eric Ruljancich who brazenly used a rope to help Shiefman make his way up a wall, and thence to freedom.

By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
May 7, 2010

Nice Joe! Great to hear that you triumphed.

By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
May 8, 2010
rating: 5.12

Freedom!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Way to go Joe! Perseverance does indeed pay off. There was certainly one psyched Lil Bull at the chains.

@john: Very witty there wordsmith

By Hampton Uzzelle
From: Tucson, Arizona
May 8, 2010

Congratulations- That was one well deserved redpoint! I know you're psyched Joe.

By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
May 8, 2010
rating: 5.12b

Nice job Joe!!!!!

By Jimbo
May 8, 2010

Awesome, Joe!!

You are a shining example of perserverance for all of us!!

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 9, 2010
rating: 5.12

CONGRATS JOE!!!!!! Ditto Jimbo's comments - your perserverence is inspiring!!!

By lamina
May 13, 2010

JOE!!!!! a little belated CONGRATULATIONS!!!! Sooooo happy to learn of this!!! Wish I was there to cheer for your FA!

By jbak
May 14, 2010

Doing that route an such an ADVANCED age is very impressive.

By 1Eric Rhicard
May 14, 2010

Great job Joe! Way to stick with it. 3 stars from me. The thing that makes it great is that it is so sustained. Didn't find any big rests as on many of the routes on this cliff. No single super hard move but a lot of hard moves in a row and these make finishing it off difficult. One of the best routes at the crag.

By jbak
May 15, 2010

I like Sentenced and Armed Robbery alot, but IMO this one is the best.

By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
May 16, 2010
rating: 5.12

Although a little crimpy in places this is one of the best lines at Jailhouse. Fun, balancy, and sequential movement with no rests the entire way.

By 1Eric Rhicard
May 21, 2010

Think you could come up with a better name. A Life Of Climb, 3 Year Stretch, Life Behind Knee Bars (not applicable but I like it), Hard Labor, Dept. of Rejections, Life Ascentence. Too much time on my hands. ME, that isn't a name.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 21, 2010
rating: 5.12

hahaha those name are funny!