Jailbreak 5.12
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| Type: | Sport, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12 [details] |
| FA: | Joe Shiefman, ERuljancich, HUzzelle, JBak, May 2010 (drilled by Jbak on a wet, snowy day, Dec 2006) |
| Season: | Usually shady and breezy after noon, so always bring warm clothes |
| Submitted By: | jbak on Mar 18, 2007 |
| |
Just a little crimpy...
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Description Ultra-sustained, harder than either SENTENCED or FINGER PRINCE. The higher you go the harder it gets (as it should be). Crimpy, espec. up high.
Location To the right of SENTENCED TO HANG, two routes start off a ledge about 6 feet off the deck. The left-hand of the two routes is JAILBREAK.
Protection bolts and chains
The usual suspects! EFR on his way to an awesome, ...
| Joe on Jailbreak. Eric Ruljancich on belay. Photo ...
| Gier...
| Joe trying to break!
| Pumped?
| |
By Andrew Ryder From: Flagstaff, AZ Dec 31, 2008
| Is this route still red-tagged? |
By Jimbo Jan 2, 2009
| If Joe has finally sent this thing all the bolt hangers should be there. If not you might want to give it a serious once over before you start up, as a hanger or two might not be there. |
By jbak Jan 2, 2009
| Yes...still red-tagged. |
By Neill Prohaska From: Tucson, AZ Feb 11, 2010
| Not still red-tagged, is it? |
By JoeS Feb 13, 2010
| Thanks Eric for pointing out that the fellow who had bolted the route, namely me, is still interested in getting the FA. This has gotten embarrassing. Although it is a good route, I sometime wish I hadn't bolted it. I keep getting close (1 fall numerous times and not all at the same place) and then the weather changes or I can't find a belayer, and then many months go by. On top of that Prison Camp is so popular and crowded. Not a great place to work a grade that is hard for you. Many times too nyumerous to count, well intending folks come up and ask "Hey, you get your project yet?". Even one or two folks whom I had never seen in my life have come up to me and asked if I sent my project. I'm obsessing. It's not that large a problem in the scheme of things. Bottom line, I haven't been on it for months again, but I'm climbing stronger than I was before and am pschyed to get it this spring, starting when the temps in town get above 80 degrees. I will even committ 3-4 days a week until it sends (if I can get someone to catch me) I really appreciate everyone's patience and encouragement, and I will post it immediately once it gos, hopefully soon. Joe |
By jbak Feb 14, 2010
| Alternate name: Statute of Limitations Seriously though Joe, you dialed in that route at Homme Depot pretty fast. I think you're ready for Jailbreak. My list of undone projects is now about as long as my arm. |
By jbak May 7, 2010
| May 7, 2010: Pima County Sheriff's office reports that Joseph "Lil Bull" Shiefman broke out of jail sometime in the early PM. He was aided in his escape by one Eric Ruljancich who brazenly used a rope to help Shiefman make his way up a wall, and thence to freedom. |
By Hendrixson From: Tucson, AZ May 7, 2010
| Nice Joe! Great to hear that you triumphed. |
By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC May 8, 2010 rating: 5.12
| Freedom!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Way to go Joe! Perseverance does indeed pay off. There was certainly one psyched Lil Bull at the chains. @john: Very witty there wordsmith |
By Hampton Uzzelle From: Tucson, Arizona May 8, 2010
| Congratulations- That was one well deserved redpoint! I know you're psyched Joe. |
By Christian From: Tucson, Az May 8, 2010 rating: 5.12b
| Nice job Joe!!!!! |
By Jimbo May 8, 2010
| Awesome, Joe!! You are a shining example of perserverance for all of us!! |
By Geir From: Tucson, AZ May 9, 2010 rating: 5.12
| CONGRATS JOE!!!!!! Ditto Jimbo's comments - your perserverence is inspiring!!! |
By lamina May 13, 2010
| JOE!!!!! a little belated CONGRATULATIONS!!!! Sooooo happy to learn of this!!! Wish I was there to cheer for your FA! |
By jbak May 14, 2010
| Doing that route an such an ADVANCED age is very impressive. |
By 1Eric Rhicard May 14, 2010
| Great job Joe! Way to stick with it. 3 stars from me. The thing that makes it great is that it is so sustained. Didn't find any big rests as on many of the routes on this cliff. No single super hard move but a lot of hard moves in a row and these make finishing it off difficult. One of the best routes at the crag. |
By jbak May 15, 2010
| I like Sentenced and Armed Robbery alot, but IMO this one is the best. |
By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC May 16, 2010 rating: 5.12
| Although a little crimpy in places this is one of the best lines at Jailhouse. Fun, balancy, and sequential movement with no rests the entire way. |
By 1Eric Rhicard May 21, 2010
| Think you could come up with a better name. A Life Of Climb, 3 Year Stretch, Life Behind Knee Bars (not applicable but I like it), Hard Labor, Dept. of Rejections, Life Ascentence. Too much time on my hands. ME, that isn't a name. |
By Geir From: Tucson, AZ May 21, 2010 rating: 5.12
| hahaha those name are funny! |
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