Jailbait  5.13c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet Consensus:  5.13c [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Rob Eison on Feb 28, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Jailbait

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Private property with a public access easement and conservation easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Critical to see current requirements and restrictions. MORE INFO >>> Jailhouse has been and remains privately owned. The owner has graciously allowed an access easement and conservation easement to let climbers get to and climb at the cliff. Current access is now via the new double gate and gravel road. In the future, a new route may be necessary due to future subdivisions. For the current gate code and rules, visit www.accessfund.org/jailhouse. Some critical conditions of the easement we need to comply with include: No dogs on the property Close all gates (typically there are over 200 head of horses on the property), particularly the gate to O'Byrnes Ferry Road No loud music No fires No camping at the cliff, trailhead, or anywhere in the vicinity Access allowed only from sun-up to one hour after sundown No littering In addition, seasonal raptor closures on a portion of cliff line may be posted on the property and online if there is active raptor nesting. Our ability to climb here is contingent on our compliance with the conditions of the easement. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a full value endurance 13c which isn't over until you ring the anchor bells. Start on the right of 2 parallel pillars and dial up for ever-steepening technical and powerful moves utilizing a few helpful kneebars along the way. A break on jugs and kneebars at two-thirds heighth gives way to another powerful 30 feet of business with little chance to catch your breath until the anchors. A final stand-up vertical lunge into a blocky undercling usually yields multiple obligatory redpoint whippers as most people skip the last draw on redpoint.

Location 

2 routes left of Fugitive

Protection 

10 fixed rope draws or chains to a 2 bolt fixed draw anchor.