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 ADVANCED
Penitentiary Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cell Life T,TR 
Climb and Punishment T,TR 
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 
Deception TR 
Jack the Ripper T,TR 
Jailbait T 
Life Sentence T,TR 
Minimum Security T,TR 
Possession T 
Rehabilitation T 
Repeat Offender T 
S&M T,TR 
Speed is of the Essence T 
Sticky Zipper T 
Tax Evasion T 
Unknown Right Arete T 

Jailbait 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Gary Olsen, Bret and Stuart Ruckman 1984
Page Views: 1,064
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 25, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: 1) Rehabilitation 2) Deception 3) Life Sentence...

Description 

Jailbait climbs the right side of Penitentiary Wall. Jam up really secure climbing below the roof. Pop over the roof at a thin crack, then continue up through flakes (good holds) up to a set of chain anchors. The upper face is difficult to protect.


Protection 

Standard Rack.



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By Nathan Fisher
Aug 21, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Heady lead, especially above the roof. I seemed to bring all the wrong sizes of gear. Smaller gear up top, and tricky to say the least.

By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Aug 15, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great climb on beautiful rock, and there's not a lot of rock in BCC that I classify as beautiful. The gear is tricky. Perhaps some small tricams would also be nice for the horizontal cracks, mine were too big :(

By Jeff Guest
From: Coalville, UT
Aug 22, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Watch out for the wasp nest under the overhang. If you stay to the left of the roof they will leave you alone.

By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Jun 21, 2012

Really cool line.

By JBONE
2 days ago

Santa gave someone a drill for Xmas. There are bolts right next to the crack of Jailbait and S&M :-( Who wants some nice hangers? Chop Chop