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Jail Bait 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
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Page Views: 1,088
Submitted By: Paul Hunnicutt on Jul 23, 2007

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Sasha Cherry on the layback section - Jail Bait 5....

Description 

A sporty bottom, followed by a "trady" top section. Climb a pretty continuous, vertical face with decent pockets and mantle onto a big ledge. There is a hidden, left hand pocket that makes the middle of this face much easier. Rest here for a while, then pull around to the left and climb with good holds and better feet up to a knee bar on the ramp to the left. Shake, then continue on crimps up to a chimney. Layback the chimney up to another knee bar halfway up the chimney...shake again, and bust up the layback a few more feet before pulling into a jug inside for your left hand. Stand up and finish on easier moves to the anchors. The chimney had been groveled, but I bet it wasn't pretty. The clip after the knee bar in the chimney is sometimes skipped, because it is quite a reach around back right.

Location 

Right at the top of the path you take to get to Cardinal Sin. Just look for the chimney 3/4 up the route.

Protection 

11 bolts with quick links - count to make sure as I'm not 100%.


Photos of Jail Bait Slideshow Add Photo
Sasha Cherry - Jail Bait 5.11c.
Sasha Cherry - Jail Bait 5.11c.

Comments on Jail Bait Add Comment
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By Jeremy H
Jul 31, 2007

Great description, Paul.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jun 27, 2011

I thought this route was great. The layback at the top was a hoot but I'm guessing people are skipping it and lowering off from the two bolts with chain draws, missing out on the exciting finish. At least, that's what I'm guessing.