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This route is fun. A bit tricky protecting the start, I thought there was short, ground fall potential before getting gear in at a reasonable height. However, the crux is higher where gear is perfect, and bouldering up and down at the start to fidget gear is reasonable as well. Nice crux, sweet little climb.
Middle of Bitty Buttress, between Peapod and Left Crack - left variation (Hand Is Quicker Than The Eye .11d), has two bolts. Jaguary, climbs face to a crack directly above.
I slotted a nut at head height, stacked a couple of TCUs in the arch above, squeezed a #2 Ball Nut and #00 TCU shortly after; the remainder is more obvious.
BETA PHOTO: The climb, and the crack, are in the center.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Nov 9, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13
The D'Antonio guide shows an anchor above this climb, but one does not exist.