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Jade Gate 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c X

Type:  Trad
FA: Matt Samet, Steve Dieckhoff
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 557
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jul 19, 2001
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Jade Gate, showing the lower diagonal slashes lead...
Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


This is the "warm-up" route on the South Face of Seal Rock. It is towards the east end of the face behind the thick copse of pine trees and can be distinguished by its pink-colored, ghost-shaped groove up high. The pitch is about 60 feet long and finishes at a fixed sling on a loose horn over the lip of the slab. Back this anchor up with cams.

Boulder up past good huecos and move left into a purple band to place some marginal gear. Crank right into the left-angling crack (good gear here - a #3 Camalot). Follow the crack up and left until it ends, then face climb up into the bottom of the pink groove. A hole at the top of the groove provides your final gear before the exit bulge.

This pitch has potential for very serious falls in a few different spots.


The rack is a bit eclectic: Camalots 1-4 (2 #4s if possible), RPs, small tube chock (the red one) and a #1 Tri-cam.

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By steve dieckhoff
Sep 30, 2001

Matt led this on-sight in a very impressive effort. I think there is room for two #4 Camalots in that final hole and you may want to place them both!