Located just north of Phoenix with good quality multi-pitch traditional routes. Fairly secluded setting with a moderate but lengthy approach ending with a final steep and loose scramble to the base of the the spires. The area consists of three spires, although most of the routes can be found on the first and third spires.
From Phoenix: Drive north on I-17 to exit 236 (Table Mesa Road). Turn right (east) onto a road that quickly turns to dirt. Approximately 1 mile from the interstate you will reach a gate. Proceed through the gate (close it behind you). Continue on the dirt road for ~3.3 miles to a cattle guard. Cross the cattle guard and continue to a 3-way split in the road. Stay on the middle road to a pull-out on the left - park here (~0.25 miles past the cattle guard).
The approach: Hike down the dirt road, staying right to find an obvious trail. The trail stays above the canyon for a good distance. Eventually, you will see the spires on the left (north) side of the canyon. Cross the canyon as the trail descends and you are nearing the first spire. At a very large shade tree begin looking for a faint trail heading up toward the first spire - it is relatively steep and loose.
Face climb up past 2 bolts. Traverse left on a good ledge to a third bolt, then continue up to a fourth bolt. Climb up to gain a good crack, past a tree to the notch. Finish up on either Don't Bug Me (5.6) or Second Pitch of Something (5.9R) or scramble off the back of the back of the notch. If you continue to the top it's a single double rop rap back down....[more]Browse More Classics in AZ
visited the first spire on janury 14,2011. The directions are good enough but it is nice to know that you do not enter the ranch gate, you go left to open and close a chain link gate a mile from the interstate. high clearance is a must for your vehicle and 4wd recommended. The hike takes around an hour and is ~1.5 miles flat then 1/4 steep uphill. we added some cairns to the uphill section of trail. there are old and new bolts on the first spire. At least 9 routes exist here so an update on what those are would be great if anyone knows.
There is a beehive somewhere near the top of the 5.8 crack on the north face of the 3rd spire. I think the climb is called Penetration. The bees would prefer you avoid that area. Or at least that's how we interpreted the angry buzzing and attacks to the head without stings, thankfully.