Jacobs ladder is the leftmost route on the south buttress found by walking up hill from the starts common to tranquility, Hotter than Hell, and Cold day in hell. Once up the hill a ways belay for the first pitch near a birch tree next to a large boulder/clifflet.
Pitch One: climb straight up on moderate terrain past two bolt to a small roof/overlap. Find a hidden pin above the overlap and mantle at 5.9+. Follow a bolt and gear placements to a tree ledge and belay off any number of trees.
Pitch Two: Above the treeledge there is a steep featured slab with a horizontal crack running through it. Follow two bolts on sustained 5.10 climbing to the horizontal, plug gear and move up past a bolt and a pin to the next tree ledge, belay at trees.
Pitch Three: Above this tree ledge is a Large roof that spans the entire left side of the cliff, there are two bolt lines, the one on the right is Fiddler on the Roof (5.10d) and the left hand route is Jacobs Ladder. For Jacobs Ladder you want to climb a moderate crack system to the left of the bolts for Fiddler, once established on a ledge system follow a line of bolts up and right on nicely sustained 5.10+ face and slab climbing to a two bolt anchor below the left side of the roof.
Pitch four: Move Left from the bolted belay and swing around the roof on moderate to easy face climbing to reach bolts and a rest before the headwall. At the third bolt move right on delicate smears and balance moves, clip your last bolt and make hard moves to the top of the cliff and a two bolt anchor.
Note: The last two pitches can be combined with double ropes or a lot of slings, this makes for a very special experience on the south buttress and wonderful exposure.
Rap with one rope pitch by pitch or two ropes twice to the ground (One rap to the inferno tree ledge, second to the ground).
a single rack of cams to 3", nuts.
From: Newmarket, NH
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Jun 21, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Great Route indeed!! Dug and I climbed this route several years ago and it has been one of my favorites ever since. We have heard it also called "Star of David".
Pitch One does required some flexibility, easier for taller climbers.
Pitch Two offered me a good size snake in the horizontal crack! Great face climbing none the less.
Pitch Three, in my opinion, is the most sustained 5.10+ face climbing on the route. Great traverse at the end.
Pitch Four: ?never done it?
|By Peter Lewis|
From: Bridgton, Maine
Aug 24, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Just a couple of route description clarifications.
Jacob's ladder is not a trad route; it has almost all fixed protection. Expect only 1-3 trad gear placements per pitch. A few small to medium cams is all you will need.
P.2: One bolt leads to the first horizontal where a cam protects a boulder move to a big ledge (small tree). Then a piton and a bolt gets you to the second horizontal (cam), and then two more bolts and a final cam get you to the ledge.
P.3: As of August 2010, the third bolt just has a nut, no hanger, so bring a wire to slip over the stud.
P.4 There are three bolts total on this 35-foot pitch, and the delicate traverse to the right is between the second and third. The anchors are ten feet beyond the third bolt, just over the top of the little headwall.
Great route. All the pitches are fun and well protected and it's on a nice quiet part of the cliff.
|By Chris Graham|
From: Bartlett, NH
May 31, 2012
This is a really fun route. the first pitch was a bit spicier than I thought it would be, and I missed the key handhold on the overlap which made that move considerably harder. Next time I will stay out to the right to see if I can find it!