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Land that Time Forgot
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ankar Gate S 
Black Sheep T 
Cloak of the Wolf S 
I Love a Cigar T 
Jacob's Ladder S 
Knossos S 
Minoan Maze S 
Nazca Line S 
Oklahoma Princess T,S 
Practislab S 
Riders in the Sky S 
Solarian T 
Temple 19 S 

Jacob's Ladder 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rueben and Juels Fleschmann
Page Views: 903
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Mar 2, 2007

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Description of sorts 

Jacob's Ladder passes many of the jagged overlaps and roofs in the center of the wall, right of the Ankar Gate, with direct slab climbing in between. Each pitch is around 100 feet. Bring a bunch of draws.

Start some 100 feet right of the Practislab.

P1: Moderate slab leads to an 'eyelid' roof. Cruxy improbable roof is height-dependent and crimpy, but rewarded with a jug. There is another variation pulling the roof to the right. Belay set back on a nice ledge. 16 bolts 140'.

P2: Stem corner then step right out of it. Insecure slab moves follow to the belay. 10 bolts.

P3: Long stretch of slab climbing leads straight up to a stiff roof problem. Keep the feet pasted! The crux of the route, IMO. 13 bolts.

P4: Moderate face and slab. little dirty in spots to another roof that is a bit easier than the first two. 5.11ish, but there are bigger holds! 15 bolts.

P5: Moderate climbing to the right then continue to the saddle. You pass by some belay anchors of another route. 9 bolts.


Pro 

QDs and lots of them. Two ropes.


How you get down. 

Rap 3 raps with two 60m ropes(recommended).
EDIT: per Kevin Stricker, P1 rappel is 140', cannot rap with one 60m rope.

This is the quickest and cleanest rap off of the saddle.

A short down climb from the last 3 bolt anchor will put you on the saddle where you can take your shoes off and picnic.



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By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Jun 22, 2008

A single 60m rope will not get you down the first pitch. You will need a 70m rope to get to scrambling territory on the last rappel.

What's up with bolting a 5.8 crack on P2? FA party couldn't be bothered to bring a single cam?

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 23, 2008

Thanks for the correction, Kevin, I added to above description.

By Tamas Kovacs
Nov 3, 2010

Not that I really care, but Josh Heiney and myself did this route right after it was bolted. In fact, the last anchors were still being bolted when we started the route. We did not bolt it, however.

Nevertheless, it's a fantastic route.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 7, 2012

Really, Tamas? That's not how I remember it, as I personally bolted P1 and that was the last pitch to be bolted and then we climbed it. Are you thinking of another route? Was that the same weekend you hurt yourself from a boulder that dislodged on the trail?