2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This route is about 40' to the right of the difficult Gill Crack. You can belay in the shade of a nice, large boulder.
P1: Scramble up to the short dihedral, climb up it a few feet, and traverse left (crux). Continue traversing a long way (~40') to a crack that leads up to a ledge with a bolt and a pin.
P2: Climb up and to the left of a bush, grab a jug, and mantle onto a small ledge. Continue up this easy corner until you get to a fixed ring pin....back it up, lift up your skirt, and grab your nuts---traverse left on scary insecure "5.9" climbing for several feet (anyone get pro in on this???) I think that most people will find this to be the true crux of the climb, mentally and technically. Anyway, join up with a crack and climb it to the next ledge.
P3: Complete with the last pitch of Jackson's Wall. (5.6)