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Jacks Canyon

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Asylum, The 
Casino Cliffs 
Cracker Jack Cliffs 
High Life Wall 
Lost World at Jacks Canyon 
Main Wall 
Swiss Wall 

Jacks Canyon 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.7547, -111.062 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 204,085
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Feb 22, 2006
Forecast:
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Partly Cloudy
72° | 52°
Clear
77° | 53°
Clear
81° | 54°
Clear
77° | 55°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
78° | 56°
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(Same route as other photo i submitted)

Description 

Beautiful limestone, well protected sport routes with pulling on pockets and edges of mostly high quality rock. Setting is within a beautiful canyon and climbing can be had year around, chasing either the shade or the sun. For the majority of the year, the weather is beautiful (as is common of the desert southwest), with the best time of year being March through May (springtime), and September through November (fall). Floods occasionally drown some of the walls and make some of the climbs inaccessible, this varies by year.

Climbs here are, for the most part, very well protected, and range from 5.6 to 5.13. One can easily push their limits here, and do it safely. A clip stick is helpful for keeping some of the starts safer.


Getting There 

First, find Winslow, AZ, east of Flagstaff on Interstate 40. From I-40, take Winslow exit #253 (North Park Drive) and go south. Heading south on North Park Drive, in about a mile you will come upon Second street, turn left (one way going east). After several blocks you will hit a traffic light, turn south here (right) onto highway 87.

Continue south on Highway 87 for roughly 30 miles to mile marker 313.

0.7 miles past this you will see a pull off to the right with a gate, turn right. There is typically a piece of webbing on the gate, use it to open the gate and please close the gate after passing through. There is an obvious sign on the right just after the gate with some climbing stickers on it. This is how you will know you have found the right place. From the gate, continue straight ahead on a good dirt road. You will see a few turn offs along the way (with one large one at about 0.4 miles), just keep straight ahead on the best looking road. Eventually, you will come upon the camping area. There is a large forest service pit toilet here. There are various trails that head from the parking area into the canyon.


Resources 

Jacks Canyon Sport Climbing by Deidre Burton and Jim Steagall.


Climbing Season


176 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',61],['2 Stars',87],['1 Star',22],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',7],['5.9',16],['5.10',37],['5.11',54],['5.12',50],['5.13',6],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Jacks Canyon:
Sinker   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Sport   Cracker Jack Cliffs
Betty Cracker   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   Cracker Jack Cliffs
Gouda   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Swiss Wall
Mickey Goes to Vegas   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Casino Cliffs
Dealers Choice   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Casino Cliffs
Genesis   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport   Main Wall
Jack and the Beanstalk   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport   Cracker Jack Cliffs
Crosstown Traffic   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport   Cracker Jack Cliffs
Bats in the Belfry   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport   Main Wall
Sacrificial Lizard   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   Main Wall
Always Smooth   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   High Life Wall
Jacks in Hole   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport   Cracker Jack Cliffs
Enemy Wind   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport   Cracker Jack Cliffs
Tales From the Grypt   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 85'   Main Wall
Limestone Cowgirl   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Main Wall
The Original Crackerjack   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport   Cracker Jack Cliffs
The High Life   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 75'   High Life Wall
Swiss Arete   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, Chipped, 40'   Main Wall
Firedance   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   Cracker Jack Cliffs
Kindest Cut   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 65'   Main Wall
Browse More Classics in Jacks Canyon

Featured Route For Jacks Canyon
About halfway up.

Enemy Wind 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : Cracker Jack Cliffs
The formation at this area forms a shallow book type feature. On your right you will find Big Plans 10a and on your left is Enemy Wind. The route looks innocent enough but is a bit longer and is sustained in steepness. The guidebook warns you to "hold your breath and run for the anchors". Translation...you'll might be gassed but keep going!...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Local Information for Jacks Canyon
News
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Upcoming Events
Oct 14REEL ROCK 9 Film Tour
Photos of Jacks Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Twilight, Jacks Canyon
Twilight, Jacks Canyon
Check out how cool this amazing lizard was we saw at Jack's Canyon!!
Check out how cool this amazing lizard was we saw ...
Harry Edwards on Suicide King.
Harry Edwards on Suicide King.
Black Walnut skyline in Lower Moenkopi, Jacks Canyon Area
Black Walnut skyline in Lower Moenkopi, Jacks Cany...
5.11 on Main wall. to the right of the first roof (from the left side)
5.11 on Main wall. to the right of the first roof ...
Looking towards the Swiss Cheese Wall, Jacks Canyon
Looking towards the Swiss Cheese Wall, Jacks Canyo...
Scenic Photo
Scenic Photo
Back at camp sitting around the lantern after a long day of climbing.
Back at camp sitting around the lantern after a lo...
Wendy teaching her puppy how to be a crag dog.
Wendy teaching her puppy how to be a crag dog.
Sunset, Jacks Canyon
Sunset, Jacks Canyon
Detailed Jacks Canyon Map.
BETA PHOTO: Detailed Jacks Canyon Map.
Cover jacket for Jacks Canyon Guide 1/09
Cover jacket for Jacks Canyon Guide 1/09
The view near the parking area, Jacks Canyon
The view near the parking area, Jacks Canyon
A Dark and Evil day.
A Dark and Evil day.
A flying Birdie.
BETA PHOTO: A flying Birdie.
This way to the main wall.
This way to the main wall.
Jack's Canyon and its silly sit starts hahahaha
Jack's Canyon and its silly sit starts hahahaha
Come rain or shine.
Come rain or shine.
Roughing it, Jacks Canyon
Roughing it, Jacks Canyon
jeffrey gibson leading life is good
jeffrey gibson leading life is good
The view from the top of the trail (May 2013).
The view from the top of the trail (May 2013).
Convolvulus hawk moth (Agrius convolvuli), Jacks Canyon
Convolvulus hawk moth (Agrius convolvuli), Jacks C...
Road Map: Detail on getting into Jacks Canyon.
BETA PHOTO: Road Map: Detail on getting into Jacks Canyon.
Comments on Jacks Canyon Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 12, 2014
By Bob Borgeson
Oct 10, 2006

On the directions to Jack's Canyon, the pull off for the gate is milepost 313.7 as noted on the map. But because the mileposts from Winslow are descending (starting at about 343), the directions should read:
'Continue south on Highway 87 for roughly 30 miles to mile marker 314

0.3 miles past this you will see a pull off to the right with a gate, turn right.'

Traveling south on Hwy 87 to mile marker 313 takes you .7 miles past the turnoff.

Just had my first visit. What a great place!!

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 2, 2007

Because most all of the anchors at Jacks are cold shuts it's a must to use quickdraws while TRing and then have the last person rappel rather than lower with the rope threaded through the shuts. (Granted on the steeper climbs it may not be possible to rappel and clean draws but...)

By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Oct 10, 2007

Does anyone have beta on The Asylum? I am looking for driving directions, approach info and any sort of topo would be awesome.

By Maurice Liddy
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 10, 2007

We got stuck there last week too. Do yourself a favor, park near the gate and walk in (unless you have 4wd). That's what we should have done!

By Brent Silvester
Apr 16, 2008

I was wondering what the camping situation is like? Also was wondering if anyone could recommend a fun route in the 12+ range.

Thanks in advance.

By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 16, 2008

There is plenty of camping at Jacks, lots of good-sized sites with fire pits about a 5 minute walk from the climbing. There is a pit toilet, but bring your own water and your own firewood; there aren't many trees out there to begin with and what is there has mostly been stripped clean. It can get quite cold after the sun goes down, even when the days are hot, so bring what you need to keep warm. It is very beautiful out there at night, and on some trips I think the time spent around the fire with friends, chatting and looking at the stars, was even better than the climbing.

Oh yeah, the camping is all free.

Classic 12+ routes at Jacks: Unpopular Mechanics, Trick or Tweak, Hooked on Pockets, Huecos Rancheros.

By Brent Silvester
Apr 21, 2008

Thanks!!

By ron mitchell
Nov 8, 2008

While climbing at Casino Cliff on 10/28, we FOUND a digital camera someone had left the previous afternoon. We were there through the weekend hoping maybe the owners would show up, but they didn't. We would love to return. Contact Ron and Ginger at 775-588-8305

By Chad Brown
Mar 16, 2009

Anyone been to Jack's, just wondering the conditions and river level??

Thanks for your help

By kyber
From: Portland
Apr 14, 2009

going to jacks sometime next week, where can i pick up a guide book besides online? flagstaff?

By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 15, 2009

Yep kyber, they should have some at the gym in Flag, call them (928.556.9909) to make sure.

By John Hannah
From: Tucson
Apr 21, 2009

HEADS UPS! This comment is spot on:

"On the directions to Jack's Canyon, the pull off for the gate is milepost 313.7 as noted on the map. But because the mileposts from Winslow are descending (starting at about 343), the directions should read:
'Continue south on Highway 87 for roughly 30 miles to mile marker 314

0.3 miles past this you will see a pull off to the right with a gate, turn right.'

Traveling south on Hwy 87 to mile marker 313 takes you .7 miles past the turnoff."

The directions as they are given above in the description are wrong. And going down the wrong road can get you screwed, as I found out. There are other turn offs in the area they actually describe that you don't want to go down in anything but a 4x4.

By Crimp Nasty
Sep 9, 2009

Any info on current conditions? Flooded? Bugs? Heat?

By bsear945
Apr 9, 2010

My girlfriend and I go to Jack canyon often for 2-3 days depending on our schedules. We would be happy to take anyone down who would like go with us and split some gas. We live in Flagstaff.
Cheers.
bsear945@gmail.com

By JimmyK
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 10, 2011

I found a black water bladder that was stuck in a tree branch above the tree trunk one can use while crossing over the creek to get to Casino Cliffs. It belongs to one of the two other groups climbing on March 10, 2011. Please reply to this post with contact info and I will be in touch.

By Megan Goold
Jul 3, 2011

Did you leave your gear hanging on a tree at the campsite? If so, I've got it in Tucson. Pls. provide email address to get in touch.

By Challie
Aug 30, 2012

I was wondering if anyone can identify two routes for me. if you take the trail past the swiss wall around the corner to the right before cracker jack cliff there is what may be a 8 and a 10. The possible 10 has a small roof you have to pull over to get to the third bolt (the second bolt is just at the over the ledge. They look new and I can't find any info on them. Does anyone have any clue what they are actually rated?

By Tracy Best
From: Camp Verde, AZ
Aug 22, 2013

Does anyone know about current camping conditions there? I know there was a fire not too long ago. I assume climbing is OK, but not clear on the camping part.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 22, 2013

The fire didn't bother the camping area. Trails have been restored.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 22, 2013

Sounds like the swarms of Mosquitos are reaching biblical proportions this year.

www.mountainproject.com/v/108297788

By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 21, 2013

I was there over the weekend and didn't notice any mosquitoes.

By D Dyreson
Jan 12, 2014

Hello:
Does anyone know how the roads are right now? It's been pretty dry the last few weeks in Flagstaff, wondering if it would be a good time to head to Jack's.
Thanks!
D