Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
High Wire Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5th of July 
Ace in the Hole 
Bouncer 
Bypass 
Contrarian, The 
Crack Swindler 
Cracker Jack 
Deuces Wild 
Everyday Struggle 
Full House 
Ghetto Activity 
Head Up Dirty 
Hip at the Lip 
Idiot Savant 
Idiot's Roof 
Indirect Savant 
Jackpot 
Life After Death 
Machine Gun Funk 
Nickels and Dimes 
Notorious 
Overpass 
Passing Lane 
People's Choice 
Poker Face 
Pony Up 
Power Play 
Road Kill 
Road Rash Roof 
Road Warrior 
Slot Machine 
Stone Cold Moderate 
Via Comatose Amigo 
Wild Card 

Jackpot 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Richard Wright and Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder, 2000
Page Views: 1,495
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 7, 2001
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Crux section on "Jackpot", great route.

Description 

Jackpot is the route immediately to the right of Via Comatose Amigo and adjacent to the dark gully that splits this sector of the crag. The line heads up in perpetual shadow to take the overhanging pale plate. The entry on to the plate, to give away the beta, is a heel hook. Chase the bolts on the left for 5.11d or run the face for 5.12b. Friends claims 5.12a either way, but I beg to disagree. Straight up is cool, and not 5.12a. Gun for the pocket. This may be height-dependent, but for me the move was not, no way Hose-A, 5.12a. Finish up on several clips after passing a pegmatite band and a small roof (pull it on the left!). The finish to the anchors has a tricky sequence on very thin edges, so watch your balance. Two stars, will keep it honest, for the cool moves, good stone, variety, and continuity.


Protection 

QD only. This 85 foot route needs about 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. This line needs a 60 m rope for descent, or bring two.



Comments on Jackpot Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 19, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 10, 2001

Two stars. And skip the apology.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 24, 2002

I agree. No way 12a and yes, height-dependent. "Gun for the pocket." That's a mighty big gun you got there. Ask me, it's 12c/d.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 7, 2003
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

There is a 10+ way to do this route. Pull onto the overhanging bit, clip the next 2 bolts. Move R for an excellent rest in the wide crack. Then, traverse L past the bolt to the edge of the small face, gain a great series of buckets as you arc back to the pocket. Straight up seemed way harder.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 8, 2003
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Sorry Richard, 3 stars seems a bit much. Thought about this for a while. 1.5 stars, maybe. Variety yes, but it probably is in the "Not bad" category. Many routes in CCC are much better. IMHO, in the area, People's Choice at this crag, Peer Pressure and Learning to Crawl at Highlander, The River Mild at the River Wall, Balkan Dirt Driving at Sports Wall, Reefer Madness at Wall of the '90s come to mind.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
May 14, 2003

Three stars probably is excessive. I get a little drooly when there is a chance to lob an overhead, or even shoulder height, heelhook. Feels like a chance to recruit the sprinter's gluts, something that doesn't happen very much any more. The line does have a lot of bail-out option, but, pick your poison. Straight up is as safe as it gets and it has a nice dyno move to a good jug. Nothing special, just fun. 5.12 but not a real cranker.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
May 16, 2003

Anecdote - when this line went in I was leading the final little 5.9 section just below the anchors and ripped off one of those thin, friable flakes at the top...took a 30 foot whipper. My belayer figured that it was all over after the mantle and had a lot slack out. Clean fall, however. Some of that thin stuff might still come off, so watch it.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 17, 2003
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Yeah, actually I found the climbing just left of the last 3 bolts to be on slightly better rock. You can just reach the bolts from better rock. CCC can be brittle but fun, and the ratings kind to the ego. Cheers.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
May 18, 2003

I re-ran Jackpot on 5/17. My retro-fixes hang a bit more with reality - harder than 12a up the middle, but reasonable at soft-12b for the lousy feet setting up the lunge. Lot of variety overall. I can't see going right at all. This would put you a mile from the gear, and you really need to clip high in setting up the middle section, otherwise I think you have to skip two clips.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 18, 2003
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Trying to onsight (when not a 12 climber and not knowing the rating), moving R for a great rest after clipping the bolt below the crux is quite natural. It might be different when you didn't envision the line and drill the bolts. From the rest, you are not far from the bolt and you can recharge the batteries. Then traverse 2 moves and get back to the crux. It's like doing an eliminate or calling some move "off route" versus saying it is natural rock and just climbing whatever works. I wuz jus' climbin' an' 'aving fun. No 'arm in it. Cheers.

By micah stocker
Oct 21, 2004

I don't want to write what I think about the rating. However, it was a cool route. Last week I broke my finger by unintentially shooting a nail through it. I had to go to the hospital with a bad infection later that night. They performed surgery on my finger to clean it out, splinted it up and told me I would not be climbing for 6-8 weeks. Today exactly one week later without the splint I almost onsighted this with a stupid fall at the last bolt. I thought it was the 10c but soon realized my mistake. 2nd try for the red point; however, I used the no hands rest off to the right. I don't think it really makes it any easier, because it is a bitch to get back to the left, requiring some finger strength. Well, I don't recall any big dynos, but I am also pretty tall. Who cares what the rating is it, just felt good to be back.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2004

Sheet, man, you can climb this with a broken finger??!! Maybe I'll try shooting a nail into my own finger if it helps that much.

By David Champion
From: Centennial, CO
Dec 27, 2007

I'm confused by the description and comments here re: the grade. I onsighted this thing last October, and my send limit is middle 11. I pulled the little roof--right where the less than vertical section becomes overhanging--perhaps a little right of the first bolt above this transition. Then I traversed somewhat left on reachy, hard, but fairly positive, holds. I finished the climb entirely to the left of the bolt line, reaching right to clip each of the remaining bolts.

I see no explicit description of this "variation" here, only a variation to the right which drops the grade to 5.10, and one that goes straight up the bolt line at ~12a. Is the variation I did what you are calling 11d? It felt hard to me (MAYBE low 11), but not 11d. Anyone else do it this way and, if so, how hard do you think it was?

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Mar 22, 2008
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

  • **Warning: The first jug/horn you hit on the left-side arete of the headwall is loosening up, its only a matter of time until this thing blows out***.

Quite a few different ways to climb this thing. Seems like most people clip the first three bolts on the headwall, then traverse left to the arete for solid .11. This is the way I climbed it the first time, and seemed the most natural to me (yes, avoiding hard sections is natural to me lol). You can traverse right at the 3rd bolt on the headwall to gain a no-hands rest, but doing this and then traversing all the way left to the arete seems to use as much energy as just going left right away.

That being said, it seems like the intended line is straight up the middle of this bitch. The feet aren't as bad as i thought they would be (working it on toprope), but it was hard to get them into place. Once set up for the throw, the move to the jug wasn't that bad, but I'm sure being 6' is beneficial. Both ways are fun and challenging, with clean fall potential (until you get above the crux headwall, watch the ledges)

A 60m will get you to the ground, but just barely, and depending on which pile of rocks your standing on. Watch your ends.

By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
May 11, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

This is a great line up a nice headwall. Either way is legit, straight up felt way hard for 12b I think at least 12c. If you cut left, it's mid-5.11. Not sure were the 5.10 rating is coming from, maybe Leo is a Gunks or Eldo climber. Even so, mid-11 is on par with other routes in Clear Creek.

By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Nov 19, 2013

This line definitely eases up the farther left you trend, but 5.10? Felt like solid 11 to me. Definitely not less than 11b IMO. Staying direct looked for like hard 12ish. Didn't try way right like Leo mentioned.

Fun line on big holds. Top headwall was kind of wacky.