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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Offenbachar
Page Views: 1,114
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Aug 15, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: traverse right from here to get the crux, or go st...


Upon arriving at the spires, scramble on rocks and through manzeneta to the right to find Jacko. It is facing downhill on a spire about 50 feet to the right of Just Jerry.

The climb is really odd. There are a number of incut holds in cracks leading up steep terrrain until the crux before the last bolt. Then traverse right to the anchors.

Avoid going around the arete after the 3rd bolts as this way is only about 5.9 and not as cool.


5 bolts to a two bolt anchor

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By bergbryce
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Aug 2, 2013

I'll have to try this route again, but it really left a bad taste in my mouth. Two bolts on a nice thin hand crack, the 4th bolt gets in the way of crux footwork, making the crux even more awkward and a strange anchor placement.

Something useful about the route... you can TR the corner below the anchor, it's steep and a bit thought provoking for a few moves. Not sure about the big block in the corner 3/4 the way up. I did not pull on it that hard. I think this is the climb Wacko(?)