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b. Jackie and friends
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Blackout, The T 
Classic T 
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Jackie T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Jackie 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Jack Taylor, Lester Germer, 1952
Page Views: 9,882
Submitted By: Guy H. on Apr 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (215)
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Jacki Subberra - placing gear before pulling the f...

Description 

Jackie is a popular moderate climb to the left of Classic which includes a fun roof on P1. It's a good route for early leaders, as protection is plentiful and the line is fairly straight.

This climb is located directly behind the Chockstone Boulders. Follow a trail before or after the huge boulders a couple minutes down the road from Uberfall.

P1: Follow a crack system up and left to a short right-facing dihedral with a small overhang, directly behind a tree. Continue up the face to a larger overhang (piton) with big holds. Protect your follower after you've pulled the roof, then move 15' right to belay at bolt anchor shared with Classic. 5.5, 80'.

If you're setting this up for newer followers, make sure to protect the roof well for them; otherwise they'll have to pass the roof to the right, which is much harder than 5.5, and usually involves a lot of noise.

P2: Angle left passing the overhang to the face above. 5.3, 80'.

Descent: From the top, it is possible to rap, but a much better idea to use the Uberfall Descent.


Protection 

Standard Rack


Photos of Jackie Slideshow Add Photo
Shirley on the second pitch of Jackie
Shirley on the second pitch of Jackie
Pulling over the 2nd roof at the top of P1 on Jackie.
Pulling over the 2nd roof at the top of P1 on Jack...
Damon Farnum under the first roof on P1.
Damon Farnum under the first roof on P1.
Just above the first belay. Seems like it's been stuck there for a bit.
Just above the first belay. Seems like it's been s...
Climbing the second pitch.
Climbing the second pitch.
Dede pulling the roof on P1...
Dede pulling the roof on P1...
Questionable pin on the second pitch.
Questionable pin on the second pitch.
Royce Van Evera leading P1.
Royce Van Evera leading P1.
Rapping from the top of Jackie.
Rapping from the top of Jackie.
Looking down the first pitch of Jackie.
Looking down the first pitch of Jackie.
The first pitch of Jackie.  P2 traverses left from the anchors, and then climbs a broad face to the top.
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch of Jackie. P2 traverses left from...
TR on Jackie
BETA PHOTO: TR on Jackie

Comments on Jackie Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 29, 2013
By adrenalated
From: Thornton, CO
Jun 3, 2006

Pitch 2 isn't really worth doing unless you want it just to say you did the whole route. P1 is really fun though. That big roof just before the belay ledge is way easier than it looks from the ground.
By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Jul 28, 2006

Love to finish this climb with various second pitches. You can go right and do P2 of Classic, or straight up through the bulge is fun too, or left a bit for the traditional finish. All are easy and fun.

Second pitches in the Gunks are where the fun and adventure come into play. Try wandering a little bit. It may be dirty but you can always downclimb if you don't like what you see.
By JSH
Administrator
Sep 2, 2007

P2 of Classic is a -great- finish to Jackie, and lets you avoid the clusterf***/crowds by walking off instead of rappelling.
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Sep 29, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I didn't think P2 was all that uninteresting, but I led the whole thing in one pitch so maybe that's why. Pretty nice exposure and view of the valley, too.
By losbill
Oct 6, 2007

What Adam said about second pitches.
Also agree going straight up through the bulge on P2 of Jackie definitely adds a bit of interest to the pitch.
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 16, 2007

An awesome route. This was my favorite rte of the day. The rock is excellent, the length is perfect (just under 60m), the climbing is always interesting, and the gear is great. There is a fixed anchor at the top of each pitch.
By adrenalated
From: Thornton, CO
Jun 15, 2008

I guess I should clarify.
I love multipitch Gunks climbs. I just thought that the 2nd pitch of this one was nothing to write home about, especially when compared to the quality of the first pitch.
In any case, Jackie was my traditional warmup climb every time I went to the Gunks when I lived in NY. It is a fantastic climb.
By Spiro
Aug 24, 2008

Worth doing for anyone. Good fun moves.
By GMBurns
Sep 4, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Eh. A fun climb, but probably worth skipping if the Uberfalls area is what it normally is: crowded beyond peace of mind.
By Michael John Gray
From: Queensbury, NY
Mar 8, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I thought pitch 2 was better than one. Beautiful open book crack climbing. I dont understand what makes the first pitch so quality? The easy overhang with a piton in your face? or the wierd face climbing? Not my style...
By losbill
Mar 21, 2009

MJ --- I guess everyone has a different style of route that they enjoy. P1 of Jackie is one of my favorite pitches at the Gunks. I think the main attraction for me is the variety on the pitch. The thoughtful moves at the overlap, the bit of crack climbing to get to the overhang and the fun pull over it. All of this on beautiful clean rock with great pro at 5.5. I always look for the opportunity to get relatively new leaders who are new to the Gunks on it.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 17, 2010

This has got to be one of the best 5's in the world. It's happy, fun, a little bit of "spice" with the two roofs. A great climb for an aspiring 5.5 leader. With great pro, a 5.5 leader should have no problem going for the moves.
By Ian Dibbs
Apr 19, 2012

Warning to 5.5 climbers, save some strength for the final roof at the end of pitch 1(as seen in pictures)It may challenge 5.5 climbers abilities.
By AndyGriffin
May 24, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Took JSH's advice and did P2 of Classic, I really enjoyed doing it that way and recommend it to others.
By ntableman
Jun 9, 2012

This is a great fun climb that will not stress you out with lots of exposure and crazy pro hunting - so for learning leaders and newbies looking to push it a little. Or for people who just want to climb and chill. I am not sure why it is broken into 2 pitches, for the rap? We did it in one pitch with a 70m and the math says a 60m would nail it too, make sure you use some slings to redux the drag on the second pitch.
By BIG Climber
From: Irvine, CA
Aug 9, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

If you choose to avoid the final roof on P1 by moving left and then travesing back above the roof right to the anchors, be cautious of a very loose 12"x 12" block that could be accidentally kicked free.
By kenr
Nov 12, 2012

I agree with Ian Dibbs above and thought the overhang at the top of Pitch 1 takes some real arm strength if you don't have the height/reach. You can be as good as you want with rock sense or dancing your feet, which are key to the lower and middle crux sections of Pitch 1, but if you don't have the arm strength (or reach), you're not getting through that top crux.
By Simon L
From: Hartford, CT
Nov 19, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I'd say it's defintiely worth doing P2 and just play around with variations. Straight up from bolts for 5.4 P2, left 20 ft from the bolts on the ledge and up the face to left of overhang for the 5.3 faceclimb. I did a fun variant by going straight up 30 ft then traversing left round the arete on a nice ledge and then straight up the 5.3 face past the piton.
By A.wilk
From: MA
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Great route, best to get on it early before the Uberfall gets crowded. I found the first little roof to be a little trickier and more thought provoking than the second one, but that could just be me.