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French's Dome
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Jackie Chan 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Sowerby?
Season: summer/fall
Page Views: 807
Submitted By: phillip on Jul 4, 2009
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Description 

Bouldery moves down low lead to a jug. A few long reaches and then a series of crimps takes you toward the the beehive-shaped feature up and right. Jugs to the chains.


Location 

Just right of China Man (the only route at French's with glue-in bolts). Look for the bulbous feature 3/4 of the way up the wall.


Protection 

Bolts to a chain anchor. The recent addition of ground-stabilizing platforms has made the first bolt superfluous, as it's easy to clip off the ground. Start from the lower platform if you want to add a few hard moves (ups the grade a notch).



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By peachy spohn
Aug 24, 2011
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

The direct start is quite powerful and has some small crimps. I thought that these moves were harder than anything on Pump O Rama and that the 11d grade was off.