Bouldery moves down low lead to a jug. A few long reaches and then a series of crimps takes you toward the the beehive-shaped feature up and right. Jugs to the chains.
Just right of China Man (the only route at French's with glue-in bolts). Look for the bulbous feature 3/4 of the way up the wall.
Bolts to a chain anchor. The recent addition of ground-stabilizing platforms has made the first bolt superfluous, as it's easy to clip off the ground. Start from the lower platform if you want to add a few hard moves (ups the grade a notch).
|By peachy spohn|
Aug 24, 2011
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a
The direct start is quite powerful and has some small crimps. I thought that these moves were harder than anything on Pump O Rama and that the 11d grade was off.