Jackalopes and Preachers
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This route goes up the obvious flake on the left face of the chimney to the right of 'Fat Fingered and Overhung'. I've seen chalk all [about] the base of this route but not higher up. I'm certain I'm not the first ascentionist, but I am claiming it, unless otherwise corrected.... It is a nice little route, a little exposed, but most climbers will breeze it.
This route can be easily top roped using some longer webbing and the trees on top... some small nuts on top for back up....
If you want to lead this trad, I'd suggest some larger (7-9 hexes) pieces for the crack, [but] either way, there is risk of a pendulum into the chimney face.
This is just to the right of the Ada Jam route.
|Comments on Jackalopes and Preachers
|By kevin jenkins|
Jul 23, 2005
I should specify that this is [just] to the right of the [Ada Jam] route.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 12, 2005
I don't think there is a single route at Castlewood under 5.10 that hasn't been climbed.
|By Tom Hanson|
Aug 15, 2005
Hello Anonymous Coward,
It is true that, at one time or another, most lines of any interest have likely been climbed, on lead, toprope, or solo.When compiling the yellow Castlewood guidebook, more than 400 lines were omitted for brevity, and that was ten years ago.
Any line that was of interest enough to climb and mention on this site must have some requisits of quality. Perhaps Jackalopes and Preachers should be added to the guide.
|By kevin jenkins|
Sep 1, 2005
i'm certain that this was done, yet another Hanson or Horan or Sills classic, no doubt free soloed, without shoes, and blindfolded ten years before my birth... however, i didn't see anything on it in the guide, nor in here, so i added it... please forgive me any ill will, or toes i may have stepped upon in doing so. much love for this crag and its people.... kevin
|By Rob B|
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jun 5, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13
Lots of great small toe holds as you get higher, they don't look like much but they are definitely solid. I would warn that some moss has grown in the offwidth about halfway up, so watch out.
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Jul 4, 2013
Either your photo is wrong (not showing the route) or this has to be just to the LEFT of Ada Jam. Or I'm confused about where "Ada Jam" and "Are You Experienced" are located, because it sure looks like both of them are in the alcove to the right in this photo.