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Siberia
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A Bull with Gas S 
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Cross-Roads Finish S 
Dos Chi Chis S 
Gandy S 
George's Route (aka Binder) S 
Glen's Crack T 
Hollywood Rattlesnake T 
Irish Toothache S 
Jack T 
Kublai Corner T 
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Love Gas S 
Old Hornington T 
Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 
Randy T 
Showers With Dad S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Jack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Todd Gordon & Tucker Tech
Page Views: 278
Submitted By: Chris D on Feb 6, 2012

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Jo, on Jack, at the crux.

Description 

Start up the left-facing corner, moving to the right at the top of the corner after a fun lie-back move near the small black water-streak. Above the corner and to the right follow a crack/seam to the white headwall with brown patina plates and a ledge with a two-bolt rap station.


Location 

This starts in the obvious left-facing corner above and to the left of the big roof at the bottom of the west face of Siberia


Protection 

Fixed pin mentioned in guidebook is gone. Crux move is a .7 or .8 lieback about 25 feet up. There is no gear for the first 35 feet. Blowing the crux would send you down a chasm below the start of the route, maybe a 40-foot fall with a bad landing.

This route and Glen's Crack can be toproped by traversing right and around a grainy corner from the anchor for Irish Toothache (which climbs right up the arete on the horizon at the left of the photo) to the two-bolt anchor on the ledge.

Toproping with a 60 meter rope will require some easy downclimbing unless you extend the anchor about five feet.



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