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 ADVANCED
The North End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be Sharp Or B Flat T 
Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge), The T 
Bird's Nest T 
Childs Play T 
Exiles in Babylon T,S 
Generation X T,TR 
Jack The Ripper T 
Kiddy Crack T 
Knights in White Satin S 
Liger, The T 
Mantleshelf Problem T 
Merrill's Variation T 
Possessed, The T 
Post Mortem T,S 
Raising The Roof T 
Recluse T 
Recluse Traverse T 
Roof aka The Corner, The T 
Slot, The T 
They Died Laughing T 
Thresher T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Jack The Ripper 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: webster 74 ?
Page Views: 1,256
Submitted By: john strand on Jul 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Jack is the upper crack, the first part is a dirty...

Description 

Apart from the dank first pitch, this is a really good route and nice warm-up for the Possessed to the right. Start up a greenish ramp angling left to a good belay-fair pro 5.9+

P2 Power over a bulge on rapidly widening finger locks to a hand crack and nice belay ledge-5.11.

The direct start is a tough and slimey 5.12- rarely done.

Location 

50' left of the Possessed.

Protection 

wires to 3"- should be a fixed anchor at the top


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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is a good route, but the fixed anchor at the top is in terrible shape.
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Sep 20, 2009

The direct start is heinously difficult. Bring a looooong stickclip unless you know can onsight 5.12 technical face.

P.s. This start is now pretty clean...clean enough for climbing, at least.
By Jeremiah Johnson
From: Hershey PA
Feb 23, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

It's not too bad to traverse over to the shiny two-bolt anchor for the Possessed and thus avoid the nasty fixed anchor entirely.
By bayard russell jr
From: Madison, NH
May 14, 2010

This is a great route, but getting off the ground can leave folks scratching thier heads. The corner start is the way to go, but there is no pro - so try this, hang a draw on the Possessed's first bolt (hard to see from the ground but easy to get to), down climb and use it as a TR for gettin up to the belay ledge. Belay or pull the rope through the draw and keep going. Clean the draw on the way down after traverseing to the Possessed's good two bolt anchor.

This is probably the main reason no one has bothered to fix up that anchor, it's frequently just not used.
By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Sep 29, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

My friend had etriers in his pack so we freed up to the first bolt (v2?) on the direct start then A0'd the last two bolts to the ledge (that face is thiin). Mixes it up and goes quick. 2nd pitch is sweet!
By hasan
From: portland,me
Sep 30, 2011

Not sure why its listed pg13, takes good gear. clean to fall.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 30, 2011

The regular start is a bit nasty and dirty
By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Oct 8, 2011

hasan, yeah it's good gear once you get to the crack, but getting to it is probably more like R. That leaning corner has no gear and is dirty Cathedral 5.9.
I think that was my first 5.11 lead! Nice choice.......dumbass.