A sure to be neo-classic this is my favorite line on the wall linking the meat of "Jack the Ripper" with the best part of "Cop Out".
It starts with a tricky boulder problem and follows a thin seam to a no hands rest. Then an airy traverse into a perfect dihedral and through the roof on good holds.
Start on "Jack the Ripper" in the over-hanging seam and follow a thin crack to the left corner. Then head right in the horizontal crack over to the dihedral.
A #4 Camalot can be placed off the ground and then try to place a #3 off a manky sloper or do the boulder problem and place it when stable. Small and nuts and cams thereafter.
Eyeing up the second crux.
Oct 4, 2010
This is unfortunately a solid R rated lead only for the boulder problem to start in which there is good pro but it's hard to place until after you are through with it.
I used double ropes on lead to deal with rope drag. On a single line long runners and thought to placements is advised.
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 27, 2011
So when does this route become 5.11a? Are the moves below/out of the roof of Cop Out really 5.11 moves?
Jun 27, 2011
I thought the boulder problem at the start was definitely 5.11a moves. You're right easier after that except maybe pulling around the roof.