Jack The Crooked Cop 5.11a
| 297 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 65 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Old School |
| Submitted By: | Trad Nanny on Oct 4, 2010 |
| |
BETA PHOTO: Vince.
Add Photo  Printer View
Description A sure to be neo-classic this is my favorite line on the wall linking the meat of "Jack the Ripper" with the best part of "Cop Out".
It starts with a tricky boulder problem and follows a thin seam to a no hands rest. Then an airy traverse into a perfect dihedral and through the roof on good holds.
Location Start on "Jack the Ripper" in the over-hanging seam and follow a thin crack to the left corner. Then head right in the horizontal crack over to the dihedral.
Protection A #4 Camalot can be placed off the ground and then try to place a #3 off a manky sloper or do the boulder problem and place it when stable. Small and nuts and cams thereafter.
Eyeing up the second crux.
| | |
| Comments on Jack The Crooked Cop |
|
By Trad Nanny
Oct 4, 2010
| This is unfortunately a solid R rated lead only for the boulder problem to start in which there is good pro but it's hard to place until after you are through with it.
I used double ropes on lead to deal with rope drag. On a single line long runners and thought to placements is advised. |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 27, 2011
| So when does this route become 5.11a? Are the moves below/out of the roof of Cop Out really 5.11 moves? |
By Trad Nanny
Jun 27, 2011
| I thought the boulder problem at the start was definitely 5.11a moves. You're right easier after that except maybe pulling around the roof. |
|
RSS Feed
5 more...
Slideshow