Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Railroad Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birch Tree Dihedral 
Catenary Crack 
Cop Ripper 
Cop-Out 
Face-Off 
Jack The Crooked Cop 
Jack the Ripper 
Lumby Ridge 
Old Shoes 
Pillar, The 
Pilloried 
Pine Tree Dihedral 
Pine Tree Step-Across 
Right of the Eye 
Snedegar's Nose 
Tang Shwang 

Jack The Crooked Cop 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Old School
Page Views: 362
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Oct 4, 2010
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Vince.

Description 

A sure to be neo-classic this is my favorite line on the wall linking the meat of "Jack the Ripper" with the best part of "Cop Out".

It starts with a tricky boulder problem and follows a thin seam to a no hands rest. Then an airy traverse into a perfect dihedral and through the roof on good holds.


Location 

Start on "Jack the Ripper" in the over-hanging seam and follow a thin crack to the left corner. Then head right in the horizontal crack over to the dihedral.


Protection 

A #4 Camalot can be placed off the ground and then try to place a #3 off a manky sloper or do the boulder problem and place it when stable. Small and nuts and cams thereafter.



Photos of Jack The Crooked Cop Slideshow Add Photo
Eyeing up the second crux.
Eyeing up the second crux.
Comments on Jack The Crooked Cop Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tradoholic
Oct 4, 2010

This is unfortunately a solid R rated lead only for the boulder problem to start in which there is good pro but it's hard to place until after you are through with it.

I used double ropes on lead to deal with rope drag. On a single line long runners and thought to placements is advised.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 27, 2011

So when does this route become 5.11a? Are the moves below/out of the roof of Cop Out really 5.11 moves?

By Tradoholic
Jun 27, 2011

I thought the boulder problem at the start was definitely 5.11a moves. You're right easier after that except maybe pulling around the roof.