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Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall)
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Jack Straw T,S 
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Jack Straw 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rob Griz
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 351
Submitted By: Rob Griz on Aug 13, 2012

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Description 

We all know where Jack Straw is from...and I know you'll be amazed with this classic, thin-edged, sport line. Begin this 2-pitch line on the left of Scotch on the Rocks by following the fixed line west, passing the dead tree and scrambling up the broken slab. This route is the left-most of the two bolted lines on a short, 30' wall. Climb past the 3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor left of the dead tree. Belay here or angle up right 40' on unprotected 5.5 slab to a higher belay where you will find a 2-bolt anchor on crack/ledge. This is the same belay stance for Kanarado Korner.

The classic second pitch ascends 6 bolts up a steep face through a daunting roof. Balancy face moves get you atop the upper slab and lead to a 2-bolt anchor right of the dead tree and belay alcove. Don't let Jack "shoot you down"! 2 single rope raps get you back down.


Location 

This is left of Scotch on the Rocks . Follow the fixed line past the dead tree and head up the broken slab to the short, steep face with 2 bolted lines. Jack is the left route.


Protection 

9 bolts, 2-bolt top anchors.



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By Will Sharp
From: Breck, CO
Nov 24, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Big thanks to Rob for all his great work on this wall and others here in Summit County!

Jack Straw (great name by the way) is a really fun and challenging line with some pretty big exposure on the second pitch. First pitch goes easily at 5.10. However, the second pitch is considerably harder than any of the 5.10s I've been climbing recently. I gave it a 5.11a. Everything you need is there, but once you find it, it's thinner than you wish. Enjoy!