Jack Straw  5.10

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  Rob Griz New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Rob Griz on Aug 13, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

We all know where Jack Straw is from...and I know you'll be amazed with this classic, thin-edged, sport line. Begin this 2-pitch line on the left of Scotch on the Rocks by following the fixed line west, passing the dead tree and scrambling up the broken slab. This route is the left-most of the two bolted lines on a short, 30' wall. Climb past the 3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor left of the dead tree. Belay here or angle up right 40' on unprotected 5.5 slab to a higher belay where you will find a 2-bolt anchor on crack/ledge. This is the same belay stance for Kanarado Korner.

The classic second pitch ascends 6 bolts up a steep face through a daunting roof. Balancy face moves get you atop the upper slab and lead to a 2-bolt anchor right of the dead tree and belay alcove. Don't let Jack "shoot you down"! 2 single rope raps get you back down.

Location 

This is left of Scotch on the Rocks . Follow the fixed line past the dead tree and head up the broken slab to the short, steep face with 2 bolted lines. Jack is the left route.

Protection 

9 bolts, 2-bolt top anchors.