Jack of Hearts
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BETA PHOTO: The start
100' or so down and left from Popular Mechanics. Start up a hand and fist crack to easier terrain and then the top of a pinnacle, step right across a void and into a thin crack and some flakes to the top of the pitch. Definitely worth doing if in the area and on good rock but not as classic as Popular Mechanics or Ace of Spades.
Standard rack, a fairly long and varied pitch
|Comments on Jack of Hearts
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 14, 2003
I climbed this route about 10 years ago and it really kicked my butt. I remember thinking at the time that it was more 5.10 than 5.9. perhpa I was having a bad day. Comments are encouraged.
|By Josh Beck|
Mar 14, 2003
Immediately after this climb I did Nolina Crack (10a) and Ace of Spades (9), and both felt a touch harder, so it seems reasonable to me to call this 5.9... A little insecure up high after stepping across the void into the chunky corner but no big deal.
Oct 17, 2003
Typical rack to #3 Camalot. If you continue high enough, there is a bolted rap anchor.
Start in the hand crack at the base of the lowest part of the main wall. Continue up the burly big hands crack, which eases towards the top. Continue through the offwidth above, and then step across a gap with less than perfect rock. The belay is on a ledge above. Rappel to the base of Popular Mechanics.
Apr 4, 2005
The intial crack is real good. A book example of vertical hands to fist cracks, on a corner. The rest of the climb is not so nice. I give it two stars just for the initial crack. It feels steep for a 5.9.
|By Woody Stark|
May 18, 2005
I followed and lay-backed the lower crack. I'd never do that on lead ,though. We (Locker) broke it into two pitches. I led the second, and the choice is between the jam on the left and the face on the right. I took the face(5.9), error, error--scary, dangerous runout. The lower crack we both thought was harder than nine.
From: Westminster, CO
May 18, 2005
Now I have something to go on.....The hand crack at the start did indeed feel harder than 5.9. I give it the ambiguous 5.9+ because that rating means it can be pratcally anything out here at Jtree. Anything that is but 5.9 and down... The start ate me alive! But it was a challenge and really fun in an odd way............
Apr 7, 2011
Eases quite a bit after the first 12 feet or it'd be 10a. 95' rap from the chains.
|By Mark P Thomas|
Jan 27, 2013
Start is steep, but you don't get better jams than those! Definitely 5.9, no way 5.10 if you know how to do steep cracks (its all about how to use your feet). Upper wide takes small gear, so don't bring anything larger than a #3.