Jack of Heart
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This is a decent 5.9 crack that would be a lot better if the crack didn't end 20ft. below the top. The upper section is a bit akward and the anchors aren't placed all that well, but the botom half of the climb makes up for it.
Like the other routes on this cliff it's better left as a toprope.
Start at the tree in the middle of the wall, just to the right of the bullet-scarred face.
Gear to 1", bolts with chains at the top makes for an easy toprope setup.
By Ben Beckerich
From: saint helens, oregon
Jul 8, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
watch for loose holds above the crack.. pulled two or three chunks on 7/7/11, but was tired and didn't have time to look for more