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Left Tower (AKA: The Cleaver Block)
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Jack In The Box T 

Jack In The Box 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ron Beauchamp
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 173
Submitted By: Bill Lawry on Jan 7, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Jack In The Box (also known as?)

Description 

If someone has a route name from the past, just let me know or ask an administrator to change the name. Barring that, same thing to whoever climbed this to place the modern rap-bolts.

For the 5.8 leader, this route climbs like playing with a Jack In the Box toy. Hold your belayer down with a good upward pull piece(s) as there is an overhanging block of rock at the belay.

There's the vertical crack climb with good pro which climbs like the nice easy music and the suspenseful clicky sound from the winding lever ... solid steady thoughtful work. Be aware there is a semi-detached chunk of rock in this section, about the volume of a soccer ball.

And then, when exiting right as the crack turns left, there's the loud 'n scarey "boing" in the face of an alarming lack of crimpers / knobs, increasing pendulum risk (depending on how you try to top out), and no more pro. Once through the several moves at the crux, it's relatively easy but unprotected climbing to the top.

Maybe I missed something like a fairly straight up but hard move?

If someone has topped out by leading the left-arcing choked-off crack and then finally up a connecting vertical crack, let's revise this description.


Location 

Set a belay on the small table-top ledge at the SE corner of the tower.


Protection 

Half inch to two inch wired stoppers and cams. No need to carry big stuff on lead. At the same time ...

A three or four inch cam is useful for the belay with something in a one or two inch crack at your feet. Up the starting wide crack, we initially put a four inch cam down low but soon found the horn a ways up could be lasso'd with a long runner.



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