Jabberwocky  5.12 R

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Jim Waugh and Ray Ringle, 1981 Season:  Fall, Winter Submitted By:  Geir on Oct 12, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Jabberwocky bite

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Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>> Effective this date and until further notice, Special Closure Order 05-189, dated March 18, 2002, is hereby amended as follows: All persons are permitted access into the “Squaretop Area, which includes all existing rock climbing sites and/or domes (i.e. Squaretop and Lower Squaretop), Dragoon Mountains in Township 17 South, Range 23 East, the East ½ of the Northeast ¼ of Section 27 and the Northeast ¼ of the Southeast ¼ of Section 27. All persons are permitted access into or through Rockfellow Dome Park, Dragoon Mountains (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) except as follows: Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no persons may be upon any part of Rockfellow Dome Complex and/or Cochise Dome (aka What’s My Line Dome) by rock climbing or any other means of access, annually from March 1st through June 30th; and/or Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no overnight camping is permitted within Rockfellow Dome Park (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) annually from March 1st through June 30th. Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A classic old-school route with beautiful climbing and some truly challenging sections. For those who aspire to climb some of the best hardman climbs in the Stronghold, this one should not be missed.

Kerry's description for the route can be found here:

www.climbaz.com/Backcountry/page_html/page234.html

Starts approximately 50' left of Abracadaver beneath a boulder leaning against the wall.

Pitch 1 (5.12, approx 60'): Climb up underneath the boulder on to a slab. Six bolts protect moves leading up and right along a weakness into a corner. The crux is around the 3rd and 4th bolt (5.12).

Pitch 2 (5.11+/12-, approx 80'): Climb the difficult left facing corner. After about 60 feet move right past a bolt to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.10R, approx 140'): Run out the bulgy, nearly unprotected slab (mostly easy, a move or two of 5.9) to a corner with crack. A small nut and a #2 bullnut can offer some marginal protection here if you happen to find the placements. A fall would be bad. Gain the well-protected but somewhat grainy crack and work up to a point where a thin crack diagonals to the right. Climb this crack up and right (5.10) to the gorgeous crack above. Belay with gear.

Pitch 4 (5.7, approx 150'): Climb the stunning low-angle crack to the summit and a two bolt anchor.

Location 

Starts approx 60' left of Abracadaver where a large boulder leans against the face.

Protection 

Cams through 4". Make sure to include some small stoppers and ball nuts. Depending on how you do pitch 3 you may find these helpful.

Photos of Jabberwocky Slideshow

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1st pitch

Andy just before the crux. To be continued . . . ...