Jabberwocky 5.12a R
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| Type: | Sport, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Andy Patterson, Bernd Zeugswetter |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Several grades harder when hot |
| Submitted By: | andy patterson on May 11, 2012 |
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Slay it!
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Description "Beware the Jabberwock, my son!
The jaws that bite, the claws that catch!
Beware the Jubjub bird, and shun
The frumious Bandersnatch!"
(from "The Jabberwocky", by Lewis Carroll)
Indeed. This fine addition to Gibraltar climbs a variant passage to Broken Mirror, but still feels like an independent line. The crux possesses thrilling deadpoints, barely-positive open-hand crimps, cryptic footwork, and, should you fall, gut-stopping—but totally safe—airtime.
Start Broken Mirror from the hanging belay, mantle the hole, clip the 2nd bolt, and cast off under the roof. Once you surmount the difficulties and catch the massive jug, reach way out left and clip a bolt (at this point, Broken Mirror goes right. Don't clip the 3rd bolt of Broken Mirror, as it will just create rope-drag). I won't spoil the experience with beta, but the crux begins here. After the crux, climb up and through the belay ledge for Self Reflection and finish on SF's four bolts.
Location Same belay as for Broken Mirror. Rap down the West Face of Gibraltar from anchors above Self Reflection. The hanging belay is located about five feet below the big "hole".
Protection 7 bolts. Bring draws (slings aren't necessary).
Excuse the quaint, hand-drawn topo. Broken Mirror ...
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By Will Barnes
From: Goleta, CA
May 14, 2012
| Nick and I gave this guy a whirl today on TR. I feel like it might deserve the award for most devious and interesting face climbing in SB at least that I have come across so far (the fact that it had been baking in the sun for a couple hours definitely played a part in this, however). Felt like it could warrant a slight grade bump over Broken Mirror (crux was a couple moves longer, thinner and felt a bit more sustained) but maybe with cooler temps it'll feel a bit different.
Either way congrats guys...definitely a couple gems you found there. |
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 14, 2012
| Funny, I said the same thing to Bernd after I led it. There's some specific beta that makes things slightly easier, but the way I initially climbed it things felt like solid 12b. Also, definitely wait till sunset next time. I've made the mistake of leading it in the sun and I took some good grease-off whips.
I also agree that the crux is a tad longer than Broken Mirror.
I'm so psyched that you and Nick have been getting on this line! More people need to climb it. |
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