Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Andy Patterson, Bernd Zeugswetter
Page Views: 3,537 total · 24/month
Shared By: andy patterson on May 11, 2012
Admins: andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

"Beware the Jabberwock, my son!
The jaws that bite, the claws that catch!
Beware the Jubjub bird, and shun
The frumious Bandersnatch!"

(from "The Jabberwocky", by Lewis Carroll)

Indeed. This fine addition to Gibraltar climbs a variant passage to Broken Mirror, but still feels like an independent line. The crux possesses thrilling deadpoints, barely-positive open-hand crimps, cryptic footwork, and, should you fall, gut-stoppingĀ—but totally safeĀ—airtime.

Start Broken Mirror from the hanging belay, mantle the hole, clip the 2nd bolt, and cast off under the roof. Once you surmount the difficulties and catch the massive jug, reach way out left and clip a bolt (at this point, Broken Mirror goes right. Don't clip the 3rd bolt of Broken Mirror, as it will just create rope-drag). I won't spoil the experience with beta, but the crux begins here. After the crux, climb up and through the belay ledge for Self Reflection and finish on SF's four bolts.

Location Suggest change

Same belay as for Broken Mirror. Rap down the West Face of Gibraltar from anchors above Self Reflection. The hanging belay is located about five feet below the big "hole".

Protection Suggest change

7 bolts. Bring draws (slings aren't necessary).

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