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 ADVANCED
The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Crack, The 
Boondoggle 
Byrd Pinnacle Left 
Feather 
Friar, The 
J + J Groove 
Lemon Bomb 
Red Zinger 
Skyline 
Trim 
Unknown 
V Formation 
Whoosh 
Wrangler Hero? 
Xyphoid Fever 
Xyphoid Left 
Unsorted Routes:

J + J Groove 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FRA: jon o'brien, jasmine farro
Season: Sunny most of the day
Page Views: 271
Submitted By: Jon O'Brien on Jan 19, 2012
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Where it be at yo?! 

just right of the start of the friar. the friar is easily recognized in Oak Creek Canyon on the way to Solar Slab as the semi-free-standing tower with a large boulder capping it on the right side of the approach/ canyon.

rappel single 60 meter rope.

the start of the friar is marked by a scary body-sized leaning block beneath a large, right-facing dihedral. J + J Groove begins just right of the scary block under the chocolatey overhang/ shallow dihedral.


FRA for sure, i don't want to front: there are crappy old anchors midway(bare hangers, no chain or links, not great rock), I'm unsure if they are there to help rap the Friar with an old rope or if someone tried this as a project and never sent or if they did send and just didn't report or fully install rap anchors. the old midway anchors look 25-30 + years old, they appear in the Swain topo for the Friar with no mention otherwise.

ANYWAY, it is a great line and a great addition to the cragging area that includes the Byrd pinnacle, Red Zinger, and the Friar 1st pitch. possibly a lost Herbst route, possibly abandoned: be much scarier w/out today's gear.


What's that gear like sucka?! 

standard to 4''. include rp's, off-set stoppers, and a set of C3's or MasterAliens to the smallest sizes.

Old bolted anchor w/out chain or link at midway (you could add chain or link if you trusted them) the climbing might be boring for many after the midway anchor. there is a good fixed nut/ bolt anchor at 100'.


It's Groooovy Baby! 

immediately right of the start of the Friar there is a juggy start that pulls you up just right of the leaning block that begins the Friar. Immediately cruxing in the slight overhang to gain the shallow, groovy dihedral. place gear and then pull the crux. establish yourself in the dihedral and then groove your way over the overhang (30' total). easy, less-protected 5.4-5.6 for 20' to the easy crack above and another 50' to the anchor. i'd say a good warm-up before Red Zinger: short 10a crux.






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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Jan 21, 2012

Do we get photos, muthatrucka?

By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Jan 31, 2012

i'll get you a good shot when i head back, forgot the camera that day... it IS cool though! pics soon i hope...

for now, you can't miss it if you are standing at the start of the friar it is the cleaner start a few ft. right... looks more intimidating than it ends up being