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5. Saturday Buttress
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Alexandra David Neal 
Becky's Arete 
Black and Blue Bulge 
Black Wall 
Gulliver's Travels 
Ivy Right 
Jasper's Dihedral 
Old Stump 

Ivy Right 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,108
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on May 25, 2006
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Jeremy protecting the crux.

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Description 

An excellent beginner climb or first lead. This route follows the crack system straight to the top.

  • RCM&W #68, p.47.


Location 

This route lies to the right of Jasper's Dihedral and to the left of Old Stump.


Protection 

Nuts and hexes. Bring cams if you trust them in quartzite. Standard top rope setup.



Photos of Ivy Right Slideshow Add Photo
One of my first trad leads ever.
One of my first trad leads ever.
Saturday Buttress
BETA PHOTO: Saturday Buttress
Leading Ivy Right.
Leading Ivy Right.
Half way up Ivy right
Half way up Ivy right
Comments on Ivy Right Add Comment
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By Tyson S Arp
Feb 16, 2007

Great beginner lead--lots of restful stances and lots of placement options. Don't forget your tricams--they fit jagged quartzite cracks extremely well.

By Tom Smart
Apr 20, 2008

I turned this into a 2-pitch route with 2 followers by setting up a gear anchor at the ledge half-way up. Kind of a lot of work for a 45-foot climb, but good practice.

By Brett McGraw
Jun 1, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13

This was my fifth trad lead and best route I've lead to date. Lots of placement options and a great ledge at the top to set up a belay anchor.

By Chris Williams
From: Saint Paul, MN USA
Jun 2, 2011

You can actually do multipitch on this one. I've done it a handful of times for training people. About halfway up is a ledge that works as a good belay stance that is large enough for two people. Good way to learn switching leads and tying in and all that.

By aed
From: Jackson, WY
Jan 25, 2012

Started leading this one, and about 25' up, find that I'm staring at a snake a foot in front of my face. Not poisonous, but I don't really care for snakes.