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Lilly Bluff
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Ivy League 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: James Gose
Season: Spring, Summer, & Fall
Page Views: 686
Submitted By: jarthur on Mar 21, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Description 

A really nice route on very good sandstone. A low sloppy crux at the bottom leads to steeper climbing on jugs. The original grade of 11a from both editions of Watford's guide IMHO seems to be way too liberal. I feel a grade of 10b is much more appropriate since the move involves great feet and a long move to a jug off of a pretty good sloper. Maybe if you're shorter this may feel harder, but long moves is the general nature of Southern sandstone.

Whatever you feel the grade is this route is very good and should not be missed while visiting Lilly Bluff.


Location 

Toward the right end of Lilly Bluff. Start up a ledge where good holds lead to a good sloper slot 15 feet off the ledge. The third line right of Ticks Are For Kids and just left of a bolted crack.


Protection 

7 bolts with closed anchor bolts.



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By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I agree that 11a is probably a bit generous but I think 10b could end up sandbagging people, especially the short. The one-move-wonder crux involves a much worse hold and much more technical movement than anything on Ticks. I think maybe 10c is a good middle ground.

By Jeff Edge
Aug 18, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

In Kelly Brown's guide this route is switched with Poison Ivy. In his guide Poison Ivy is listed as the route just left of the bolted crack (Krieg Crack 11d). The consensus on here seems to be the opposite. Regardless, this route is the one with the beach ball/ saddle like feature at the start and it seems to be about the same in difficulty as the other 10c routes at the cliff. Although the crux sloper move is harder in the humidity and/or when its covered in spiders.