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The Nappy Dugout
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Drunken Monkey S 
Family Unit S 
Fossil Family S 
Fringe Dweller S 
Frizzle Frye S 
Ivory Tower S 
Kingfisher S 
Lung Fish S 
Mr. Cranky Pants S 
Perfect Gun, The S 
PMS S 
PMT S 
Z Man S 

Ivory Tower 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Wright and Bernard Plessier
Page Views: 1,304
Submitted By: chad wolak on Apr 15, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Description 

Climbing commences here following nine clips up a steep gray-streaked "slab" that is the Ivory Tower and terminates atop another pedestal with just enough room for you (and perhaps one small farm animal) to stand, relax, enjoy the view and drop your rope into the lowering station.

This stellar climb has two places where chalked holds lead you leftward away from the bolts, then bring you back right into the bolt line. It seems the first of the two wanderings was unnecessary as a brief, but perhaps cryptic, upward sequence of tugs did not seem overly difficult and made wandering unnecessary. However, the uppermost wander seems necessary to keep the grade 11a. Have fun and wander or be direct - whichever your style!


Lcoation 

From a large parking area nearest the southernmost sign for the Ice Caves (this parking area is on the west side of the road, just north of a small bridge, and is marked by one of several Jackie's Portable toilets conveniently located in The Canyon - thank you, Jackie!), hike east for ~15 seconds until you reach the Nappy Dugout, then head south for ~30 seconds until the trail leads up a small (but still too large) hill. On the wall atop this hill are the two Rifle classics, PMS and PMT. Approximately 20 feet north of these climbs is a large grayish to ivory colored pedestal with a top big enough to comfortably sit you, a belayer, and a couple medium-size farm animals.


Protection 

9 quickdraws.



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The route taken from the bridge between the Wasteland parking and Arsenal.
The route taken from the bridge between the Wastel...
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By Josh Beck
Jul 17, 2006

First two bolts are a bit sketchy but the climbing is moderate. Anchors are unnecessarily placed far enough to the right to allow your rope to saw on the huge blocky ledge. Going straight up at crux makes the route harder than 11a probably. Higher it is almost mandatory to go way left. All told, it's great rock with a mediocre route that features less than stellar bolt and anchor locations.

By trumpeterfrodo
Apr 20, 2007

Gotta be 11b+. This line is sick, but is deceiving. Work the moves after the first small roof, then there are some really touchy crimps. Once you have it dialed, then it goes, but take your time!
Really fun, and awesome view from the top :)

By Aeon Aki
Administrator
May 28, 2007

Wandering left down low avoids the crux sequence of this route. Much better to climb as directly as possible, until the end where the juggy, right-trending crack seems necessary. Classic route!

By bagwag
Jun 27, 2014

In July of 2013, I replaced the first two 'manky' bolts. The anchor is also new hardware and has been moved approximately 5 feet left to avoid rope dragging over sharp, blocky edges. Thanks to ASCA replacement hardware.