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I Been Robbed 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mike Arqueso, Ron Farrell (1990)
Page Views: 1,501
Submitted By: dcohn on Dec 10, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Ben May being a total top rope tough guy on I've B...

Description 

I thought this route was called Stealin' but it is actually I've Been Robbed. See comments.

It is a short climb that packs a lot in. I like starting in the crack and ignoring all of the big holds to the left. It makes the climb more challenging and forces you to make some stylish moves. The crux near the top of the route involves pulling on pretty small holds.


Location 

second bolted route to the left of Valentine's Day Arete, second to last route on main wall


Protection 

quickdraws



Photos of I Been Robbed Slideshow Add Photo
Dominick crankin' near the start of "I've Been Robbed" - photo by Joe Lee
Dominick crankin' near the start of "I've Been Rob...
EM on I've been robbed. Photo: John Bachar 2/09
EM on I've been robbed. Photo: John Bachar 2/09
Technical powerful sustained... Going for the second clip. It looks like decking potential, but you won't deck unless you're clipping, you're not going for the clip unless you get the jug, and you're not going to deck once you get the jug because you will make the clip.
Technical powerful sustained... Going for the seco...
Comments on I Been Robbed Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jimbo
Dec 11, 2006

The route to the left of Stealin is relatively new. One used to climb left onto this new route and then head back right to finish Stealin. Which kept the grade closer to .11a/b. It's now much harder, as people go straight up avoiding climbing onto the newer route.
By the way, who ever bolted this newer route I'm referring to, should move the 2nd bolt down. Right now you've got to do the crux before you get it clipped and it's a ground fall. The clipping hold is also very small.

It's a sport route, keep people off the ground!!

Give me the world and I'll re-drill it where it should be.

By jbak
Dec 11, 2006
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

The climb you describe is named "I Been Robbed" by Mike Arqueso done around '92. The name was uttered by someone who missed the on-sight. Mike originally intended that people would climb straight over the bolts but drifting left is just too tempting.

Stealin' is the 10d/lla between I Been Robbed and V Arete.

The left-most route was originally done with no bolts by Scott Ayers....free solo I believe. He was surprised that it had been drilled.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 6, 2007

5 bolts to chain anchor. Last few moves pretty steep and difficult giving it the 11b rating. Stiffer than Stealin directly to the right.

By Tommy Wilson
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 14, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Tough crux crimp move comparable to (if not harder than) the low crux on Ecstatic Electricity. If you don't move out left to the mercy holds 5.11c/d. Fun route.

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 24, 2008
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

it's mostly 5.10 climbing with one pretty stiff move, but i thought that move was really, really cool! it's not often that i give a one-move wonder 3 stars.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Mar 19, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

1.5 stars..bullshit! (I've been robbed is right).. I'm being oppressed by the masses, I demand an immediate end to any kind of democracy on this website. ( hehe my rating bumped it up to 2 stars, I'll call off the Stormtroopers)