Ivan and the Saum
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Ivan's gonna see this and kill me. Props to Ivan (and my partner) for leading this one.
This route may be the worst I've ever done at the Gunks. I'm entering it so people know to avoid it ;-) Dirty, big loose rocks, bordering on R-rated, and a bit of a sandbag at 5.9 (IMHO!).
P1 - Climb up onto a ledge, then climb an obvious crack behind a tree past dirty rock, avoiding as much loose rock as possible. Climb past even more loose rock to a stance below an overhanging section of red/orange rock, and a right-facing flake to a large ledge with large loose boulders. Continue to top via the offwidth crack, traverse climbers' left to the Double Crack
belay/rap, or traverse right around the sloping dirty ledge to a belay rap tree atop Broken Hammer (where you'll probably need new slings - Broken Hammer does not see a lot of ascents).
On the uphill, far right side of the orange, broken wall that also contains Double Crack
, behind a prominent tree.
Standard Gunks rack and no fear of loose rock.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 1, 2008
Perhaps off route or exaggerating the looseness? I don't remember loose rock. What I do remember is I once climbed this in running shoes. I had forgotten my rock shoes. I figured I would climb barefoot, no problem. About 20' up my feet were sweating, and I was gripped. So I went down and put on my running shoes, and it felt easy, compared to barefoot.
By Tim Schafstall
Jan 23, 2009
Talk about different impressions - Dana and I climbed this route together :-)
Maybe I need to give it another chance.