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j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Aria) - The Seasons (The Spring)
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Full Face (pitch 2 only) 
High Jinx 
Ivan and the Saum 
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Winter, The 
Yellow Wall, The 

Ivan and the Saum 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ivan Rezucha and Dick Saum (1976)
Page Views: 405
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 24, 2008
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Description 

Ivan's gonna see this and kill me. Props to Ivan (and my partner) for leading this one.

This route may be the worst I've ever done at the Gunks. I'm entering it so people know to avoid it ;-) Dirty, big loose rocks, bordering on R-rated, and a bit of a sandbag at 5.9 (IMHO!).

P1 - Climb up onto a ledge, then climb an obvious crack behind a tree past dirty rock, avoiding as much loose rock as possible. Climb past even more loose rock to a stance below an overhanging section of red/orange rock, and a right-facing flake to a large ledge with large loose boulders. Continue to top via the offwidth crack, traverse climbers' left to the Double Crack belay/rap, or traverse right around the sloping dirty ledge to a belay rap tree atop Broken Hammer (where you'll probably need new slings - Broken Hammer does not see a lot of ascents).


Location 

On the uphill, far right side of the orange, broken wall that also contains Double Crack, behind a prominent tree.


Protection 

Standard Gunks rack and no fear of loose rock.



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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 1, 2008

Perhaps off route or exaggerating the looseness? I don't remember loose rock. What I do remember is I once climbed this in running shoes. I had forgotten my rock shoes. I figured I would climb barefoot, no problem. About 20' up my feet were sweating, and I was gripped. So I went down and put on my running shoes, and it felt easy, compared to barefoot.

By Tim Schafstall
From: Newark, DE
Jan 23, 2009

Talk about different impressions - Dana and I climbed this route together :-)

Maybe I need to give it another chance.

Tim S